I've got stainless exhaust studs fitted to the cylinder heads so what sort of nuts should i use? Steel nuts virtually dissolve infront of your eyes and i've been told stainless nuts on stainless studs suffer from galling and might refuse to come undone again. That leaves either brass nuts or copper flashed steel ones. Not sure if you can even get solid copper ones. Which is the better bet and is more likely to come undone in the future?
Dont know the best and Only on normal studs but I've always used copper flashed ones and they have been ok . Still usually need a bit of wd or similar but have come undone ok. Sent from my SM-J500FN using Tapatalk
Got brass on all mine although studs are normal steel ones. Its a bleedin revelation i tells yah. Had so many snapped studs or spending hours getting em off work ver the years. Had my silencer off and on yesterday. Re used them too. No problem. Also the ones i have are quite deep, deffo a full not and a bit i reckon which is ideal. Also if on stainless then they will strip way before the studs do if your a bit heavy handed. I dont think brass reacts with stainless!
I used to use brass ones - you can get brass M8s off fleaBay - but on new engine I used the smaller-head CSP jobs, which make it much easier to get the damned exhaust on. I'd try to avoid steel - they just weld themselves on.
They do an m8 in brass that takes a 12mm socket instead of 13 great for those that are tight to get the nut on under the bends
Brass, but make sure you get the manifold type they are much deeper and less likey to strip the thread. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brass-Ex...hash=item282a58a1ce:m:mVLhZuTkctufoWUvDk3_b7A
Use vauxhall corsa manifold nuts they are 8mm thread but the heads size is reduced so you can use 10mm socket.Really ideal with restricted access.
Agree the longer the nut the less pull on the thread. Of course the stud has to be well bedded in the head all the same. Type 4 do have issues here as they tend to pull through due to metal fatigue. Be wary over tightening. I have had a stud mount re-welded and tapped. Wasn't cheap but doable.
I found stainless on stainless worked great where there was little or no heat but they galled badly on exhaust manifolds and unscrewed the studs instead of coming undone even after using threadlock on the studs and copper slip on the nuts. I found brass ones on a turbo diesel T3 and they came undone dead easy. The steel ones were just a blob. They're the ones i have in my ebay watch list at the moment.
Try the silver K-nut. Reassuring expensive but you know they’ll stay tight and undo when you want them to. https://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/moto...tweeks-metric-hi-temp-aerospace-locknut-k-nut
Oh, I think the K Nuts have gone up. I know £22 is spenny for something so small, but for hassle free motoring it’s a good investment. Plus you can put a bit of wire through them and hey presto an emergency present of silver earrings for the wife.
Copper coated steel with 12mm flats . Replace once a year. And the steel studs seem to last ages too. Stainless is a can of worms. With steel nuts it makes the steel nuts corrode worse than steel on mild steel too...as well as problems with galling of plain stainless on stainless. E.G. this document on how to rot motorbikes along with how to use the nomograph presented .. steel has different electrolytic potential to stainless... http://www.voc.uk.com/net/docs/14/14-425-19.pdf