you may want to consider fitting a re settable fuse....or putting a disconnect in the live feed (but then you have to remember each time) I use one as a bridging fuse on my Zig unit, so I can charge both batteries simultaneously... it trips on cranking the engine to start up...next time I come to charge both batts, I simply push the trip down....they're about £8 from decent auto electrical suppliers.... or fit a domestic automatic voltage regulator, if it's a regular issue...shouldn't be tbh, but some hook ups are carp
Its a motor rated fuse ie slow blow. Got one coming from @sANDYbAY and ordered some from RS too. Its not the main fuse but a control circuit fuse. Will replace for now but if I have further issues with it then its either getting a solid link or I will just wire one in an accessible place.
Todays installment. Fuse recieved from the propex doctor, @sANDYbAY - many thanks my son, may The good lord feed and protect you (imshallah, just in case). And remote recieved too. Fuse fitted to unit, unit fitted to bus and left cycling on stat for a while. Got the afternoon free so may have it all done later, you never know!
Well the override and remote is good in principle but it seems my remote is a little poor in terms of its range. Doesnt work outside the van and tbh doesnt always work in the van. So the theory is ok but the hardware needs and upgrade. Ie better range and more reliable. Also got a lockout on the flue ie 4 flashes but that only happened the once. May need to shorten the inlet and exhaust.
Just got a couple of fuses of ebay for mine (£3) as it has also gone on my board too must be a particular weak point as I haven't even had power anywhere near it till I tried it the first time and nothing dead as a dodo! But, glad I have been watching the thread otherwise mine was going back too!
Decided to persevere with the remote and it sactually not too bad. Not going to bore anyone with the wiring details but both the light and the heater can be switched off via the remote. Ive used the normally closed position when for bot so that dropping the power does a reset in case the remote gets lost. So... The remotes will actually be used, technically switching the light and heater off. As the relays are fed via the interior light switch on the dash then operating the smwitch ie turning it off and then back on resets the system and makes the heater and light available again. Ive fitted a switch too, this is in parallel with the contacts making and breaking the brown control wire for the heater. This wasnt that necessary tbh as it was originally going on the dash to swicth the heater. It does however allow the heater to be switched off from there but thats a bit pointless but then again it does bypass the relay again in case of any issues. Its main saving grace is that it has a illuminated indicator light. As there isnt a light on the heating controls indicating it is operating on electric. Any time its switched on on the control panel this light will illuminate. Im disapearing up my own butt with this! Anyway some pics below of controller location and remote Velcro'd to the dash. Apologies for the dash spaghetti, ongoing work! Lol
It'll be great, well worth it. It's a PITA when controls aren't handy. I used have to dive over through the front blind to adjust the stereo. I got a remote control for it and I can switch in from in bed. Ace!
Ive mentioned it before but im dosapointed with the noise level. Having tried various methods of baffling this and using different duct lengths etc. Still mot happy as anything i fit will be above the floor as otherwise i would need to mod the heater. It seems the trade off for getting the heat where you want it without any losses from an outside fit is that it will be noisy. No noisier than a unit that fits inside but to install something to reduce this will result in interior space being used, again, whats the point. Best of all outcomes would be to fit externally and duct as most of you would be doing anyway with the gas only version. If i mod the outlets i can move the heater back so its blowing fowards and fit a baffle box or some noise reducing ductwork. I can nick about 300mm before the rear outrigger gets in the way.
