0 280 200 022 Appear to be like rocking horse poop! As are any parts I need for my stupid 1979 Cali bus! Grrrrrr.
Haha. I'll have to double check. I think they are 7 pin, but not swappable with other years. Although I can't actually find what is different between the Federal and Cali AFMs.
Have a look at 'itinerant aircooled' website they have a lot of stuff on AFMs ant type 4 FI. Should just be enough to loosen the screws and shift the board with the carbon track along slightly. I need to put an oscilloscope on my to check that it isnt too erratic. Refurb- not convinced they do much more than above. Unless they are renovating/replacing the carbon track then it will be a load of bs.
Indeed, which is going to be a Very Weird one. Quite a clever idea though, using a shaped track on the pot.
Right, AFM is back. Annoyingly, it's all sealed up and opening it up voids the warranty. So I can't actually see what has been done. But on the outside, it looks like new! I installed it yesterday and the idle is now very low. It appears stable, which is good, but very low. I've tweaked the idle adjustment valve to sit somewhere that sounds at idle, but I want something to measure it properly. Any advice? Also, any recommendations for a CO analyser?
A digital multimeter with an RPM scale, or with a frequency scale. 850rpm is 28.3Hz . These days for mixture checking .. the usual is either a secondhand and a bit temperamental CO meter from the last century, or something like an Innovate or PLX devices air fuel ratio meter using a lambda sensor that works stably for about 1000 hours /50k miles of running.. Annoyingly they still want $150-$200 despite the fact that the sensors from China are $25 rather than $100 from Bosch . I just swapped a sensor on my T1 exhaust after 60k miles. The China sensor had the wrong plug but a bag of 3mm female spade connectors dealt with that...
Adjusting on the throttle body. Air flow meter screw is not sealed, but trying not to touch that one. Itinerant Air-cooled says to screw in fully, undo 4 1/2 turns, then adjust the throttle body idle screw.
You need to use both to adjust the idle speed if it’s to lean it will run slow, really need a meter to check emissions unless you have a good ear it’s just guess work
Losing the will to live now Don’t wanna swap FI for carbs but that’s where I’m heading! I can’t get it to idle with the AFM plugged in. But with the AFM unplugged it runs like a dream. I just can’t drive it like that! With the AFM plugged in, I can, however, get it to idle by opening up the air flow a little bit. This is how it looks at the moment. And this is how I have to have the flap to get it to idle.
I did try that before but it didn’t appear to do anything. Maybe I’ll try it again, now that I know I can get the idle right without the AFM.
