Have just installed a "rebuilt" engine. And it was running but very tappety, The engine is a 2.0 type 4 CJ engine, adjusted the tappets as they should be but won't run at all now! Is there anyone around Dunmow, Essex who can help out? Be great if someone can help me.
Don't know to be honest, but the sticker info on fan housing (both engine numbers match) surest it doesn't have hydraulic ones. and as a its CJ code all the manuals say not.
Who rebuilt it, they should be able to tell you, sounds very much like you've just incorrectly adjusted a hydraulic tappets engine!
By utilising "" to describe the rebuilt-ness of your engine suggests you may have misgivings regarding the work. Can I ask why and who did the job?
It was rebuilt by a chap in Essex for a guy who wanted in his split, after it was delivered he realised it didn't fit in the split, so wanted to sell it on, all I have it the word of both the guy who rebuilt it and the guy I brought it off, no recicpts or exact list of new or recon parts. That's why I say "rebuilt" it was supposed to be a runner but after the I initial fit it ran but like needed the tappets doing, so hence my question and problems. Hopefully I have a mate coming over on sat to help and look at it. Lesson learnt, after years of trusting people in the vw scene!!!!!!!!!!!
I don't know if you understand how hydraulic tappets work but there is a good chance they would sound loud on initial start up and possibly for a few miles/ minutes especially after a build or period of standing until the oil fills the lifter. You saying they were all tight also points to the same, they're meant to be! Now you've adjusted them to what you believe to be a normal gap the valves won't be opening at all. Quick check, take a rocker cover off and try a magnet on a pushrod shaft, hydraulic are steel so magnet will stick, solid are alloy rods with steel tips.
The original engine code is no guarantee of what is in the engine is today. It does sound very much like you have adjusted hydraulic tappets as if they were solid. “And it was running but very tappet” could be hydraulic tappets that have drained and just needed time to pump up. It’s easy to check which tappets are in the engine – are the push rods aluminium or steel? Aluminium = solid, Steel = hydraulic Flakey types quicker than I do.
I'm in southend and could probably pop up at some point over the weekend but cant get to you any sooner....
In the first post he said it was running but very 'tappety'. So he increased the tappet clearance and now it won’t run at all. Having to increasing the valve clearance when the engine was already ‘tappety’ would have rung alarm bells to me. First step now is to establish what tappets are in the engine, then adjust accordingly.
Just picked up this thread and could be around over weekend apart from Sat morning if you need any help, though I have only done non-hydro tappets. The advice above does make sense but let me know if you need a hand.
If adjusting the valves made it not run o would look at the valves again, it sounds like it may have hydraulic lifters
