Another possibity is an air leak somewhere on the inlet side, meaning the engine is too lean if the choke is off. Check everything is tight and listen through a piece of hose to all the joints - manifold boots plus gaskets between manifold and head. And don't forget the carb gasket - I once found one of the bolts holding the carb down was loose.
Good battery Has powerspark svda distributor and coil about 3 months old Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
This ^^^^^ @iblaze, and if you have checked it, check it again, remove idle jet and turn over engine without it in place(cant remember who told me that one )
I had trouble setting up my bus up at idle and ended up changing the gaskets on the inlet manifold to the empi fibre ones.
That will increase idle speed; but its not how you should increase idle speed. All you're doing is masking the actual problem.
just trying to help Iblaze with the initial keep conking out problem at low revs! I've found that the setting often (was) moved...hell I had an old beetle where the throttle cable wasn't even connected properly when i got it back from one garage - that made getting around rush hour London traffic interesting. But you are correct - of course the carb does need to be set correctly and the guide you have linked to is ideal.
The idle screw is the fat one on the left of the carb. Screw it out to raise idle. If cleaning the idle jet doesn't help, double check for air leaks as the drama man suggests. Oh, make sure the mixture (smaller) screw is about 2 turns out to start with. If it's too weak it won't idle.
The big volume screw and the smaller mixture screw are in the independent idle circuit. You close the main throttle butterfly completely when the choke is off and set idling completely on those two screws. If you have the main butterfly cracked open even a fraction you also can start getting centrifugal timing advance which then can hold up the rpm above 1000, where centrifugal timong advance is also operating . The vacuum also appears with the throttle cracked open making the advance even worse. So you end up setting 7 degrees BTDC on top of a few degrees of centrifugal advance plus sone vacuum advance at say 1000 rpm. Then the rpm drops back to 850 and the cntrifugal advance drops leaving you with maybe 5 degrees of static timing . And the engine chugs to a stop. Go back to first premises. Get the engine running, choke off Shut the throttle so the endstop screw isnt touching. Disconnect and block vacuum hose from carburettor. Make sure you can measure rpm.. its too easy to hear a 1000rpm idle as nice and 850 as a bit rough. Iteratively adjust timing, volume screw and mixture screws to get your 7 degrees advance at 800-900 rpm. Start off fast - too much advance, volume screw out so it runs, gradually tweaking speed down. Listen around with a hose for sharp hisses . there should be a dull roar from the carburettor body but no air leak sounds. Try pushing the throttle spindle backwards and forwards to see if it hisses more .. if so it needs rebushing.. check for pinched rubber at the manifold seals - I have certainly pinched seals there (and blasted one open with a backfire) and also failed to correctly crush the tin gaskets at the manifold ends, as well as catch tinware in there... Then tweak mixture and volume for lean best idle, although I notice that undoing the mixture screw a bit seems to help with slight hesitation as the throttle is initially moved.
I think you need to have it a tiny bit open on duals.. https://itinerant-air-cooled.com/viewtopic.php?t=7767 Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
Ok update I took the carb off and cleaned everything with carb cleaner blew everything thro again. But when i was putting the carb back on the bus i noticed the back nut wasn't tightening up took it back off. The stud is just spinning in the carb body. Put thread lock on it for now until i get the carb kit ive ordered. Anyway managed to get her running and ticking over off choke. The white flapping about on the bottom pulley is reflective tape for the laser tachometer i got off ebay (thats going back) the digital display doesn't work. So take a look at video see what you guys think. Is she to fast running roughly timing out???? Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Air leak, blummin nuisance, there is a trick to checking for air leaks involving WD40, but I'm not certain it's that safe.
