Won't idle - help

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by formbyjules, Jul 7, 2012.

  1. Hi - my engine has stopped idling. It was fine yesterday. Now if I take my foot off the accelerator it just splutters and stalls. It will drive but stalls every time you come to a junction etc. Any ideas of basic things i can check. Pics helpful if there is a thread somewhere I don't know about? Thanks.
     
  2. Cable would be my first check, make sure its not slipped in the linkage
     
  3. as always, please put what engine/carb/inj you are running, it helps loads
    assuming its a solex carb check the wire hasnt come off the solenoid on the side of the carb
     
  4. so maybe just adjust that bolt and tighten the cable?
     
  5. sorry its a 1600cc standard carb.
     
  6. You should be able to just pull the cable by hand a little in the engine bay and if it idles ok then yea just adjust it to suit. Not sure if that's the root of the problem though but in good light you might be able to see if its moved
     
  7. Is your choke coming off when its warmed up?? It could be one of many things , ie bit of poo in jet or as dubious says your cable has pulled through or the adjuster screw which should have a little plastic cover on it is not a fag paper away from bottom of stepped cam when its warmed up .If you cant find thread on here go onto JK just campers forum and type in my camper stalls at junctions , i believe theirs a good write up about it their.
     
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  9. Make sure your hoses are all connected. Mine did the same and one of the fat air hoses had popped off.
     
  10. If it stalls every time you take your foot off the throttle, and didn't do it before, it's the idle cutoff valve on the side of the carb (or the wiring to it).
     
  11. had this with one of the bugs the pipe as Disco_kegs
    says that goes to the air filter was not on wright at the tin wear end
    pushed it back on and all is good

    http://www.vw-resource.com/34pict3.html have a look here for setting your carb up
     
  12. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    Agree with the idea that its the cutoff solenoid power feeed - on mine the wire fell off the coil + tag (covered with crud so it was invisible on a rainy night) and I went from Brighton to Southampton on the A27 having to restart the engine at every roundabout and traffic light,... :(
     
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  14. PIE

    PIE

    I have had a few do this all of a sudden, if you try the above suggestions with no improvement remove the idle jet on the O/S of the carb and blow it through with an air line, the tiniest bit of crap in there stops her idling.
     
  15. Definitely something to do with the choke or carb. hen I first start it on the drive it starts and idles fine then very quickly gets progressively worse until after a few minutes it just stop every time. Back to John at 81a to sort it. A I start to learn more I will try more stuff myself but at present i'm worried about doing more harm than good.
     
  16. it'll be the idle shut off solinoid on the side of the carb... a broken feed wire or a dead solinoid will be the culprit!! :thumbsup:
     
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  18. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Don't be side-tracked by the throttle cable, it should idle perfectly without a cable at all, which has naff all to do with it. :)

    Blocked idle jet most likely if it's happy on choke.
    or
    Idle cut-off valve.
     
  19. 1. Put ignition on.
    2. go back to the engine.
    3. disconnect the wire going to the solenoid. It looks like this -> [​IMG]
    4. connect it back up. Do you hear a "click" sound? if so, can you turn it by hand? if not, skip to 6.
    5. if it doesn't click, you can either replace the solenoid, try to clean it (not likely to work) or simply cut off the dimple inside and put it back in until you can find a new one (it is ok to do this, will not do any harm to your engine, and it should idle normally) Do not over-tighten.
    6. check the rubber boots that connect the central part of the intake manifold with the aluminum manifolds on each side.
    They look like this -> [​IMG]
    7. If you hear a hissing sound coming from either of them when the engine is running, and changes rpm as you poke the boot with a screwdriver, there's an air leak there.

    8. On the rh side of the carb body there is a brass nozzle screwed in from the outside, right next to it is a smaller brass screw.

    It looks like this -> [​IMG]

    unscrew both the nozzle and the screw + the tiny nozle behind the screw and blow them thoroughly with compressed air. (it is easier with the carburettor off, but can be done with it on if you are patient and love challenges. (don't touch the alternator terminals with your screwdriver if you decide to do it with the carb installed.) Do not over-tighten.

    9. Check that the choke flap doesn't stick in the closed position.

    11. if all fails, get a starter spray and use it on places around the manifold connections to find air leaks including the brake servo pipe and no return valve (if you have it)

    12. check ignition components, particularly the points. (if you have them)
     
  20. John at 81a did a full carb strip and clean and fitted a carb repair kit - blew out and cleaned all the pipes PROPERLY - she now seems to run like a dream.
     

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