Won't go into gear

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Tom cresswell, Feb 23, 2019.

  1. I had an issue when I replaced the clutch cable and flexi as the flexi was too short by 15-20mm and I turned an aluminium spacer which gave me enough to adjust the clutch cable:), still need to replace the clutch though :(
    A
     
  2. Do you have any pics by any chance?
     
  3. I'll try and get some in the morning, having just spent most of the day fitting a lovely shiny vintage speed exhaust I'm now relaxing in a local establishment with a few adult beverages:burp::)
    Andy
     
    Tom cresswell likes this.
  4. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    If it has the nose on the gearbox end and its the late setup then more adjustment is needed.

    If the clutch cable has been replaced then it seems they may not be the correct length..

    https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7198548

    When you adjust the clutch, the pedal should go down about half an inch to an inch then you should feel the release bearing touching the clutch fingers as increased resistance to your foot pressure. If it goes down a lot further or there is no increase in resistance to movement, the cable needs adjusting or the cable needs spacing as in the Samba thread..
     
    Tom cresswell likes this.
  5. IMG_20190224_125250.jpg Well there is the adjustment end of the flexi and the spacers seem to be a about 30mm total. Needed to do this for two reasons
    The flexi wouldn't lie in position as shown in Bentley and I had no adjustment left, after adding the spacer(s) it was OK.
    Good luck
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2019
    Tom cresswell likes this.
  6. Well it's all in and seems okay so far... I say so far because I now have a new issue... No spark!! Has anyone had issues with new coils? I've ran the check on mine ( remove wire to dizzy, attach wore to same place and scrape along an earth with ignition on. Coil should then spark against an earth) and although there is a spark it seems very week. Battery is fully charged, wired as follows: red from electronic ignition to + on coil, black from ignition/fuse box to + on coil, black to choke etc on + of coil. Black from electronic ignition to - on coil. I think it may be a simple one in that the new coils no good. Return it for a new one
     
  7. With your test you may find the spark is weak without a condenser, like points with a duff condenser
     
  8. Ahhh okay that may explain that. .. Any pointers? It's definitely spark I'm not getting Had a plug out with ignition turning over and had nothing!
     
  9. easy to pop some points in to check the electronic module is ok which would then also check coil, you have measured to see that there are the correct voltages haven't you?
     
  10. When you say voltages? I've checked 12v from better to fuse box then 12 v to positive side of coil...
     
  11. that seems fine:), can you try points?
     
  12. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    Just make sure in all the enthusiasm that you have always connected the RED wire from the distributor to the BLACK wire on the coil (usually on the left). And the BLACK wire from the distributor to the tag by itself on the coil where the green points wire would have connected.
    Get it wrong and goodbye module the instant you turn the key.
     
  13. yep all checked and on the right way, ive sent off for a new coil, lets see how it goes when the new one arrives :/
     
  14. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    If you unclamp and turn the distributor by hand with the ignition on , even with an electronic ignition, it should trigger a spark from the coil.
    Maybe its a duff coil but the fact you got a spark tells me its the ignition switch with a dirty or burnt contact on the ignition on contact.. so when you turn it to start it turns off the feed to the coil.
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2019
    Tom cresswell likes this.
  15. Hey guys so I'm at a wits end. Is there Anyone in the Derby area that can take a look at my gears with me? I've read every forum made every adjustment I can and I'm having no luck. I have a gearbox from a running bus so there is something not right somewhere...
     
    theBusmonkey likes this.
  16. @Poptop2 did you mention someone was local at dubfreeze?
     
  17. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    It should be impossible to assemble the friction plate back to front but if you did the clutch would lock, but let’s assume (always dangerous) that it’s assembled correctly. Get under the bus and pull on the clutch cable between the conduit and the clutch lever, it is easy to feel when the release bearing touches the pressure plate and there should be just enough slack in the cable to avoid contact. You will see the lever move a mm or so before you can’t move it further by hand, this should give about 15mm free play at the pedal. If the cable is too slack the lever will move more than a mm, continue to tighten it until the lever only just moves with moderate hand pressure.

    If the clutch is adjusted correctly and it still doesn’t work there’s something wrong with the assembly.
     
    nicktuft likes this.
  18. I've already done all of that assembly is exactly like all of the manuals....
     
  19. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    Does the clutch disengage when you press the pedal?
     
  20. theBusmonkey

    theBusmonkey Sponsor

    Where are you in the Derby area Tom?
     

Share This Page