where do I start?

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by SweeneyTodd, Feb 23, 2019.

  1. Did you find out what the original problem was?
     
  2. Not yet, need to split the case but it will be interesting to find out
     
  3. Ah, right. You haven’t stripped the original engine yet? Keep us posted!
     
  4. Engine went back in today after re-setting tappets & I have driven him! Yay!!!
    Still has a flat spot which is a mystery although I cleaned the carb & re-set timing?? Also I have now lost my fuel guage but I have messed around at the back of the clocks so if anyone @snotty can shed light on what might be wrong that would be great. There is a wire off what looks like a resistor attached to what looks like a relay coil, one side (red) goes to the back of the front guage & the other has two black cables in the same spade terminal, one is short & disconected & the other looks like earth on the bottom of the back of the speedo - but I have resoldered the disconnected one to the resistor & still nothing???
    Sorry no pics until tomorrow & that's if I get time or even remember!
     
    snotty likes this.
  5. The "relay" is likely the voltage reg for the fuel gauge. I'll see if I've got a pic of the connections.
     
  6. This is one but you can see the insides of mine! If I replace it will it solve my problem? It's as if there is no power at all to the gauge as it used to show qtr full all the time.
    image.jpeg
     
  7. You mean there's no top on it? Has it got a bimetallic strip in it, or a light bulb? Did it ever work?
     
    SweeneyTodd likes this.
  8. This any use? Regulator terminal on left goes to +ve supply from behind dash, gauge terminal on left (below regulator) goes to fuel sender (brown/black wire?). Back of instrument pod should be earthed.

    a fuel regulator connections 6s.jpg
     
    Valveandy and SweeneyTodd like this.
  9. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    And as well as how the engine locked up...

    (count the flyheel shims.. if there are fewer than 4 its a bodge by a builder, as these form a bearing, each one spins a bit slower as you go from flywheel to no1 bearing shell)

    Check also for any silly air leaks - bits fallen off or not assembled right. Something in the ancilliaries may have killed the previous engine rather than it being a builder issue..

    Your flat spot may be a sign of something wrong. Like a vacuum advance hose with a split. Which would cause a flat spot and a tendency to lean and hot running.

    When its idling poke around with the end of a hose with the other end to your ear. Any air leak tends to make a harsh hiss while the fan or the carb make a muffled roar or muffled hissing.
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2019
  10. 3 ;)
     
    mikedjames and 77 Westy like this.

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