At the beginning I hear you cry!! Right, I got the bus out of storage today, It's been there since our hols in Sept. Ran fine all the way home (about 30 mins) apart from last couple of miles when it felt a bit ropey. Put it down to carb. Got home did the necessary work, fit radio, new clock & some trim (nothing at all mechanical) Started him up to put some charge into the battery before nightfall but couldn't get him to idle because it had sat all day, so revved him hard - that's when the engine stopped with a squeak..... could I have possibly siezed the engine? Type 1 flat four 1641, recent 2yo bottom end from THE ENGINE SHOP in Kent!! Majority new top end, oil is ok (not full but not empty). I cannot now move the engine either by hand or with spanner?? I think it's goosed!
Another thing - starter motor is coming in as I can hear the clunk as it tries to turn over. But it is stuck solid!
I don't know why I am asking you lot! I know it's broken! So £2.5k more into it!!! Illegitimate child!
Your best bet is to remove the spark plugs try turning the engine by hand it should move easily as no compression but it does sound seized although most air cooled engines seize due to extreme heat or no oil .
There was neither too much heat or no oil. At the atorage place it took ages to start as the battery was flat, which I totally expected but after jump starting I ran him up slow, let him idle gor a good 25 mins, no problems .... in fact had a bloody big smile on my face & pride in my previous work!! Especially on the way hone .... all was good! I am flummoxed! Never seen this before?? Although if it was going to happen to anybody it would be ME!
For a new one possibly! I am sick of (sorry mods) *****ing around with it! I had him spot on! starting on the button, running like a good 'un! Built it up (top end) myself using a recon bottom end from THE ENGINE SHOP in kent ( Please people, do not use them). Had a multitude of problems with their bottom end crank case (it failed after 60 miles, then went back for a new bottom end rebuild. Was returned & flywheel oil seal leaked after 2nd build up & re-installment, so changed it ourselves (because by now I can't trust 'em) but then couldn't get gland nut back in because some numpty at THE ENGINE SHOP had previously cross threaded the crankshaft which is hardened so was stipping the nut!! So engine was dropped again (3rd time in as many weeks), sent back to be fixed.... which eventually they did ....2weeks before we were due to tour Northern Europe!! I still hadn't run it in!!!!) Anyway that's where we are at!
1. Yes and 2. definitely not! Checked everything before I even put the jump leads on! Total mystery & I've been doing this a while. My gaffer, who has been in the game 30 yrs reckons new engine but that's without seeing it.... only time & a bit of hard work will tell methinks! I will fix him because he's worth it (& we won't get back what we have put into him)!
I know how that goes been there myself even with a expert rebuilding it you can get problems Paul weeding did mine and it broke but he came back asap and fixed it full rebuild to a good mild performance state and that was a 2L FEEL YOUR PAIN MAN I go for a second hand good one
I have another problem! I have developed a throbbing vein in my temple from.... ALL THE *****ING STRESS! Just joking, my problem is that he is sat outside the back of my house..... Vunerable! AND I have no way of moving him to the shop to drop the engine & check what is actually wrong.... bugger!
Arrrrrrh can you not add home start then .................................. ring a couple of days after , was one of the reasons I had it just incase bit of a bug ar
Sorry but what it sounds like what you had was overheating, the rough running bit near the end of the journey as the choke had come off and it leaned out amd it finally reached "running temperature" There is probably a stonking great air leak in a bit that you installed on the engine, a bit like @Marzydj 's engine where T2D had simply left the brake servo takeoff open. Nothing that was meant to be sealed up was leaking, all boots and gaskets were present and good, just a massive hole left due to an error in reassembly. I would carefully check over everything you installed on the engine before daring to fit another engine. And fit an oil temperature gauge so if it starts getting hot you can slow down and sort out the problem for less than the cost of a replacement engine. Be aware that a temperature of over 120 degrees C will void the warranty on one of the brand new £2.4k engines as there is a sticker on the top of the crank case that can be checked. BtW JK delivered my Preservation Parts engine on the Tuesday following blowing up my old engine on a Friday.
