what would people recommend to start with first on full restoration. This is assuming that everything is removed. I'm thinking floor first then back then front and top but this seems to vary. Also to what extent can you repair the front beam. Mine is coated in under seal and looks clogged not sure if this means it will fall apart or is a relatively good sign Any help appreciated
I've got a Devon pop top so getting that watertight took priority. After that the main chassis jacking points outriggers etc then panels Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
Yeap as above. Underside first so you know it's good and solid, and it's nice thick metal to get used to welding on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
took floor outta mine this week ... i needed to get the top hat and out rigger replaced to the osf out riggers and jacking point, stripped off all the patches and rust bits.. and the floor had rotted in various places where people had welded patches on to the i beams,.. there gotta go too
Take a look at my resto as I had to go through all of it. Not sure there is a best way as it depends how rotten yours is. For mine I chopped out the floor and sills. Clamped the new sills to the old floor supports and replaced the supports that needed replacing using the sills as the datum. Then inner sills and jacking points and cross members. Then middle sills and outers. If yours isn't too bad you might just need to repair sections instead. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks. Mine is pretty bad and think all of it will need doing unfortunately..any advice for the front beam and it's condition..thinking that will be a beast to remove and pricey to replace..
Personally I do it in the following order..ish 2 main chassis rails Inner front valance Front and rear cross members (assuming top hats under them are OK) Top hats and I beams Inner sills Outriggers and jacking points A,b,c,d posts Front arches Front panel Outer sills Outer Bodywork, floors etc Obviously you can mix it up to suit, but best to sort structurally before worrying about bodywork.
Removal of it isn't too bad to be honest, once you've got all the surrounding bits out of the way there's only a few bolts to undo. Lower it on a trolley jack and slide it out. Generally I think you're not supposed to Weld front beams but many do (MOT men can get funny about it). If it's a neat repair they'd never know anyway. Best bet would be a good 2nd hand one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1st thing before you start now you have stripped it down is to list everything that is rusty including the bits attached to the rusty bits, then price up EVERY part your going to need, including body panels and all the stuff youll need to prep and fit them, Then youll need seals and stuff so price them up, maybee a new tailgate , the rear light will fall apart and the wireing will be past it, and it goes on and on.. If a new beam is £400 your gonna have to suck it up, and while your fitting that shiny new beam you might as well fit new bearings brakes and shox so youll also need pipes and hoses .. and new track rod ends ... each part is a knock on .. before you know it 6 years will have passed and youll be at the painting stage, by which time you will have learned how to fill and prep OR saved at least £5k to get an average job done... Im not trying to put you off, im preparing you for the road ahead ... it starts looking bad and gets much worse before it even hints at getting better ..
As above, start with underneath and make solid but before you start on the panel work I would then look at mechanical ie gear linkage rods, engine removal, beam. After I finished my restoration last year after starting 8 years before I had to be so careful when working on the mechanicals that I didn't damage fresh paint etc in some cases if you removing the floor you get better access to some of the parts as well which is a positive if things are ceased and saves you lying on your back for hours on end. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Have a look at mine as well as @JamesLey .. he flying ahead of me at the mo lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
A couple of hrs..+ lots of spotwelds to drill out.. a lot of em are hard to see.. I shone a led torch along the floor and marked them with a marker..
Good advise , but slightly boring... I would just shop for shiny things ,wheels,door trims ,rear jail bars,solar panels ,the front axle lower/thinner ,porsche brakes ,scooby engine etc... the other stuff can wait....
Any thoughts on the type of mig welder..trying to keep costs down so nothing silly but one that will do a job..prefer gas less as looks easier..
Bite the bullet and go for co2/argon (it's not too expensive). Not worth doing gasless in my opinion. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Dont mean to pee on your parade, but sounds like your about to enter a world of pain...Its doable, but a camper as a first project and no welding experience ,,, Holy merde batman.. Your in for a steep leaning curve.. Ive been restoring stuff for over 30 Years and have the full set of welding gear Mig Tig Oxy Acet and still found doing the van a P.I.T.A . They are not easy things to fix and some of the construction methods make repairs more difficult, you need to give things plenty of thought before you start cutting and welding.. Installing a complete cargo floor and top hats isn't a beginner project.. There is a lot that can go wrong ... Just so long as your aware.. and going into it with your eyes wide open... remember that panel fit is "average" and things are so expensive you dont really want to be doing it more than once, Cheap panels are cheap for a reason, expensive panels are better but still not perfect.. rear wheelarch panels are all garbage and need a fair bit of work unless you can stretch to full quarters and sides, but fitting them bring other problems .. LOL.. not painting a great picture I know, but just trying to prepare you for the road ahead .. Its like wading through knee deep mud with a 60lbs pack on your back..
