Type1 vs Type4 vs Subaru

Discussion in 'Modified Shizzle' started by Mattlad, Mar 1, 2015.

  1. VR6 gearbox would be no use in a bay unless you were mid-mounting the engine - a VR6 is a transverse mounted engine. Although you could have the fastest sideways moving bay on the planet :D
     
  2. Looks good apart from these IMO cause too much stress and wear for what you gain.
    I'm convinced mine goes better without the 1:1.25 rockers I had fitted for a few hundred miles.
     
  3. Ok cheers noted - still very much in research phase at the mo... I think I need to decide if this is going to be a full spec build or more budget option.... Looks like there would be a couple of grand difference depending on how you do it.
     
  4. And that couple of grand is normally spent pushing the welly up the revs as guts x revs = power roughly speaking. Therefore perhaps not the ideal way to approach a daily driver bus engine anyway?
    You could spend the cash and have a 200BHP monster that revs to 8-10,ooo rpm or...
    Make a big torquey bus engine 150-160HP specced approx as you have above.
    Engle 110 and Scat C35 are similar cams. I have C35 in mine no particular reason - the Engle cams look better made now I've studied both).
    Pushrods - there will be debate as it's become the fashion to spec road engines with a load of racing engine parts like steel push rods. Steel ones are noisier and again for high revving high lift, ratio'd to death drag monsters (IMO :D ) I have Ali in mine, been regularly to 6,000rpm and that haven't bent yet.
    Same with pistons - forged pistons cost more but cast pistons won't fall to pieces at 6,000 rpm
    Bolt up rockers - why? Waste of money bling possibly.
    Buy a good crank though, Scat are supposed to be good. AA might be.
    And the heads - these are V important but again you can go too far with the valve sizes and make your engine lumpy and gutless at lower revs. Rob knows more than me about that as he spent a lot of time experimenting/racing when he was a lad.
     
  5. Right, I'm off to start mine up again. :) :( :) :(
     
  6. Guys what sort of power and torque would you need to get into the " club " on the dragstrip? 150 bhp?

    I won my class in the 2012 Brighton Speed Trials ( not in a bay I must add! ) but taking the bus up the strip could be fun. I am not sure what power mine naked and a bit sketchy on the spec. It's an AN code 1800cc type 4, bored out to 2 litres supposedly, two fat carbs and an Empi exhaust , that's all I know until I get an expert to delve deeper. It us supposedly over 100 bhp
     
  7. Have a go,,you are close with that combo.
     
    Furyblade_Lee likes this.
  8. I might try and have a go around May / June before the interior goes in, nice and light !
     
  9. And don't forget you'll also need a fat expensive exhaust and to make alternative heating arrangements.
     
  10. The real problem is not getting the power - its getting rid of the heat in the long run.

    Over the quarter mile you can even manage without a fan, provided there is a big enough chunk of metal around the cylinders. Looking at some of the exotic hardware in the Aircooled Engine Interchange book..

    But the quarter mile performance is not the same as heating up hammering south on the Autoroute in 30+ degrees C for a tankful of fuel between stops.

    When driving on the flat, the power output at any given speed from both a screaming monster engine and a 1600 will be the same, and the cooling required will be the same.

    But at higher speeds or hill climbing flat out with more power, the stock cooling will have trouble coping. It does not seem to need much more than fitting better carb(s) and a better exhaust to take your stock engine into a potentially overheating zone.

    The T4 engine design does better because the fan moves more air. But lets itself down by needing better cooling on the heads (like needing sodium filled valve stems) and leading to the US fixation with T4 cylinder head temperatures.

    And the home-made Subaru conversions also seem quite often to involve a lot of time stopping to let the engine cool down because the radiators are not working adequately or there is a random airlock somewhere.
     
  11. I think I'm getting my head around where I want it get to. A call to rob is needed and I'll get the definitive list drawn up and get collecting parts.
    150/160 hp would do me fine if I can get there without spending a ridiculous sum of money. As long as it's less than Anna's nursery bill then it has to be value for money....
     
  12. Exhausts - that's another chapter.
     
  13. So you can add extra cooling with an oil cooler to help - but I suppose that won't help head temps.
     
  14. I'm not so sure about this. I've built it quite carefully and I know it's not jetted right and I know the weather isn't the warmest, but I hiked along at 85 for 15-20 miles and it didn't really get up to operating temp so I've covered the cooler. It still won't warm up so next step is bypass it and just have the long pipes. I don't think i need it. Maybe I should check the sender/gauge, but LP's version couldn't cruise faster than 65 without getting too hot. and the sender/wiring is in the same place. :)
     
  15. Well running cooler after your rebuild has got to be a good thing. Is this a temp sensor in the cooler/full flow lines your using? What sort of temp are you looking for?
     
  16. Oil cooling does make a huge difference to oil temperature when under load for long distances. Overheating isn't just about head temperatures, it's also about oil condition as the oil will break down if it gets too hot. Maintaining good oil condition has to be a positive thing for a performance engine.
     
  17. Cooler oil will also reduce engine temps
     
  18. Baysearcher

    Baysearcher [secret moderator]

    Built this yet?
     
    Spacecowboyuk likes this.
  19. How accurate is this statement? I ask because my next van will be a blank canvass and subaru would be the way I would want to go. But not if this ^^^
     
  20. I can only go by what I know and if you buy the full rjes kit which involves rad and fans you won't get this problem, and bleeding the air locks out of the system isn't a biggie.
     
    Spacecowboyuk likes this.

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