Type 4 CJ Engine Rebuild (2ltr)

Discussion in 'Restorations' started by Deefer66, Jan 27, 2016.

  1. Swivel feet have to come out through the bottom so nut comes off every time.. got bored of doing that!....

    Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
     
    Last edited: May 5, 2016
    MorkC68 likes this.
  2. So finally got back in the garage after taking advantage of nice weather at weekend to work on the receiving end of the engine on the bus with Mrs Deefer...
    [​IMG]

    Shimmed up all the rocker arms and fitted
    [​IMG]

    Fiited rocker covers with new gaskets
    [​IMG]

    Needed a dab of grease to hold that kink back in and stuck on head with vw logo upsidedown.

    Then saw pushrod retaining spring on table and took it apart to fit it .

    Cleaned up fuel pump and spent a while looking for these fixing bolts

    [​IMG]

    Anyone know what the third small pipe sticking out of pump if for?

    Hopefully get onto rest of ancillaries tonight and see what needs to be built to test it next week!


    Sent from my Hudl 2 using Tapatalk
     
    SeanOC and Cov1987 like this.
  3. The small pipe is an oil breather and is tucked into a hole in the bottom tin just behind:thumbsup:
     
    SeanOC and Deefer66 like this.
  4. its a drain ...if the diaphram splits unlike a type 1 engine that allows fuel in to oil it just drains out the bottom .......
     
    nicktuft, philntfc and Deefer66 like this.
  5. be interesting to see how the heads hold up ..... oil lite bushes are very soft and can wear but proper spacers are just aluminium so should be ok ....looks like you`ve done a cracking job
     
    Deefer66 likes this.
  6. Put a steel shim as a face to take some of it...

    Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
     
  7. You are of course correct! It's what I meant but I was being quick as I left for work:hattip:
     
  8. Well, going to have to strip a bit back and check those torqued nuts!.. been thinking it's getting a bit easy so checked with a spring balance and we'll off.. hopefully it wasn't too far off when I did the insides.......

    Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2016
  9. It's like dejavu all over again....
    [​IMG]

    Tinware back off head nuts checked... were all a bit loose...checked case nuts all the I could get to were fine..

    All done now

    [​IMG]

    Including this pesky thing that started it all.. torqued to 9 ft-lb
    [​IMG]

    Inspection cover...to 5ft-lb...that's the old screen in there after rinsing through and a clean after reports of new ones not fitting..

    [​IMG]

    And the inlet manifolds
    [​IMG]

    To 14ft-lb... where was that value.. page 28 of section 10 of the Service Manual... obviously
    [​IMG]


    Sent from my Hudl 2 using Tapatalk
     
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2016
  10. Nice rocker gear nuts! Lol. The third pipe from your fuel pump is a breather.mit allows air in and out from beneathe the pump diaphragm as it moves up and down. When the seal on the shaft fails or becomes worn it can start to pass oil through here too. The oil comes in through the pushrod journal for the pump pushrod. A short length of pipe is usually fitted which tucks into a hole in the undertin. Btw, pushrod tube clip..... I nearly always forget it till im just about to fit the rocker cover.

    Anyway.coming on. Good work!
     
    Deefer66 likes this.
  11. ... forgot to mention.. watch out for tinware overlapping the part of the head where the manifolds go..I had to loosen the tinware off again to shift it..

    [​IMG]

    Should fit like this..
    [​IMG]

    There's recesses in the head for tabs to fit in.. the bit after the lugs on the tinware was a bit too wide to fit on mine so had to be "persuaded" a bit...


    Sent from my Hudl 2 using Tapatalk
     
    Fil6 and Wigglesworth like this.
  12. Decided it was time to fill that gap in the bottom right hand corner of the engine...
    [​IMG]

    This bit would also be easier if you did it before attaching the fan. Had to take tinware off again!

    And pulled this out of the clean things box.. sensibly put the bolts back in the holes they belong in when I removed it.. wish I remembered I did that before spending half an hour looking for them!

    Put the bracket on the fan case .. square hole forward fitted the rubber air feed from the fan to the alternator and the bracket to hold the adjusting bolt..

    [​IMG]

    Put the alternator in... found the seal to the front tinware!.. itted the fan belt and put tinware back..

    [​IMG]

    Got heat exchangers beautifully prepared by Mrs Deefer

    Amazing what a wire brush and lick of heat paint can do
    From

    [​IMG]

    To
    [​IMG]

    To
    [​IMG]

    Only needed a small repair
    [​IMG]

    And bolted them on with copper lock nuts with copper grease.
    [​IMG]

    Fitted the little covers from exchanger to fan and the under tinware
    [​IMG]

    Ready for carbs tomorrow..

    [​IMG]

    ... if I can make some more gaskets! Kit only has two and I need four .. two each side of heat spacer from manifold to carb..


    Sent from my Hudl 2 using Tapatalk
     
  13. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    You don’t need the spacers for carbs; they’re for FI.
     
  14. Not the big spacers at the bottom.. there are smaller ones that go at the top of the manifold to stop the carb body warming up.. apparently..

    Sent from my Hudl 2 using Tapatalk
     
    Zed likes this.
  15. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    My IDFs don’t have spacers and neither did the original Solex. I use my bus all year round, minus 10C in the winter plus 40C and more on a good day in the summer and I’ve never had a problem with the carbs getting hot. It’s strange that the gasket set doesn’t have enough gaskets to fit spacers if they are required.
     
  16. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Depends how long your manifolds are.
     
  17. Did the new boot turn up ok?
     
  18. Yes cheers and fitted as I had tinware off again for the umpteenth time!!!!

    Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
     
  19. Better get a quick update or two on here to finish off!..
    Not been slacking for two months had a couple of distractions... most of them with threads to march on Mech Tech section...
    Hand brake bracket, gearbox refurb, gear selection rod tidy, rear hubs/ spring plates, brake pipes, drum brake refurb, disc brake refurb, brake lines and petrol tank with all its hoses.. doesn't two months go quick when you're having fun.
    So fitted last bits of metal work carbs and had a go
    [​IMG]
    Even made my own spark plug insertion tool from a bit of 1/2" hose to get those tricky 2 and 4 plugs in
    [​IMG]
    But no joy... mostly discussed here : Test run

    Sent from my Hudl 2 using Tapatalk
     
  20. And after coming home to find wind and rain had thrown there effort at it too
    [​IMG]
    (No longer fits in garage!)

    Ended up going back in to investigate very stiff turnover and soon was back to this..
    [​IMG]

    ...that was actually at the start of rebuilding again...

    Sent from my Hudl 2 using Tapatalk
     

Share This Page