170Bhp out of a N/A 2.0 Type 4 on Carbs?? Really? You should post the spec - Im very intrigued to see what modifications that engine is running to make such incredible power Im imagining less than 10mpg though. Ill be looking to perhaps maybe at a push coax 170bhp out of a 2.5L flat four with fuel injection (Subaru) so am rather intrigued
Should of been clearer - considering adding an external oil cooler via a full flow and obviously retain the stock oil cooler. But is an external oil cooler really necessary? My understanding is that the heads are the source of the heat. A correctly set up engine giving the correct volume of fuel and air to the engine, should make the engine run cooler and last longer. Therefore, trying to get my head around why cool the oil externally when the cause of overheated oil is the head temperature in the first place? I’m relatively new to all this but trying to work my way through the jungle of info out there from engine part suppliers - some of which I’m not convinced is really necessary. In theory if the engine is built right in the first place there should be no overheating.
As it’s a friend’s bus, he’ll drive it for camping trips, family camping gear and people, not as a daily driver or street racing. Just need an engine with good torque and something that pulls a bit more than stock.
If your ignition timing's fine and the carb(s) aren't running lean, I can't why a reasonably stock type 1 is going to overheat. A 1776 is only a couple of hundred ccs more than stock. Mine runs just fine without an external cooler. An external oil filter will make your bearings last longer, so worth it IMHO. Also a velocity ring on the fan shroud - easy enough to fit. I've forgotten who sells them in the UK.
Agree on all points. We are going to focus on getting compression, cam, heads, carb and exhaust right and get the machine work done by others so the resurfacing / balancing is bang on. Type 1 engine build Bug Me dvd is really good, plus the usual manuals. We’ve got a pretty good low mileage type 1 to work with. I’ve got a professionally rebuilt type 4 in my bus and it will be good to see how the 1776cc in my friend’s bus goes. I do like the aircooled stuff and for comfort we’re going to keep things pretty original where we can.
what is a velocity ring? I had a 1776cc with no external cooling - it ran fine Then i had a different 1776 with extra cooling- which was no where near as good
test/inspect the case for leaks and damage, before spending money on machining it . Pay particular attention to where the oil cooler meets the case
It’s like a short curved ram pipe that attaches to the shroud on the fan inlet. I’d think it was a gimmick, except VW themselves used them (on the injected Beetles?) Supposed to stabilise the air flow into the fan and make the cooling a bit more efficient. @paradox has an original one on his shroud, as I recall.
Can they be fitted with the engine in place or is it done when engine is out? Depending on your answer, I may try and get one
I’m really keen to get the spec right and make sure the parts all compliment each other. Appreciate anyone sharing a proven 1776cc spec with me - thanks to paulcalf already for info. All the research I’ve done on the type 4 & now 1, points towards the fact that problems arise if fuel and air supply isn’t getting to the engine properly - sounds simple I guess but poor parts/balancing/assembly can often be avoided it would seem. I’ll leave any resurfacing / machining to the professionals as it seems critical to get right. Some suggest aircooled engines are unreliable. In my view, both are good engines that VW spent a lot of time and money creating and designing - the fact they are still around is testament to the original designers and I suppose their relative simplicity, if things do not putting right.
