Discussion in 'Restorations' started by mcswiggs, Feb 18, 2018.
Might be useful?
Yep - a good read, ta.
I don’t know why but the 1.7 and 1.8 versions of the 914 got the later L Jetronic but the trusty 2.0 model got the D Jetronic kit used on the 411 of the time. All European and rest of world got a nice pair of Solexes. And all buses got the J version too of course. I don’t think there’s too much interchangeability in parts unfortunately, but I’ll continue to study.
If you want to revise your advice on not worrying about the ECU then feel free!
I was tempted by that 914 ......personally I`d ditch all the old Marmitee and replace with modern FI kit , Megasquirt or the like ..... or a pair of DELLs
It will be fine dude... I probably have a box of Djet parts buried somewhere if you get stuck. Pretty sure I have an ECU, couple of throttle bodies, pressure regulator etc.
I may need to take you up on that!
Meanwhile, a sunny but cold day gave me the chance to complete getting engine out. A bit of wiggling and it came out without too much of a fight.
It’s definitely a type 4...
..and the trolly I made for getting the bus’s engine out has come in handy again.
... and it looks like this car was used to plough fields in Colorado...
So today will be about spilting the gearbox off the engine and starting the great strip down and clean up.
I’ve also had a look at the fuel pump - 12v across the terminals didn’t result in any movement so I took it apart. I’m not sure what the FI buses use but this pump is similar to that used on 911s and mega expensive for a pucker replacement so this one has to work again! Opening it up revealed that there’s a guey varnish toffee sediment stuff that’s collected and glued the armature solid. I hadn’t realised these pumps run with the motor casing full of fuel. A good clean up and set of seals should do the trick, only I managed to break one of the connectors wires right where it goes through the bakerlite connector block.
This guey stuff doesn’t bode well for the rest of the fuel circuit.
You can get. A cheaper repro fuel pump on eBay for £18.99 or get. A Bosch 044 fuel pump for about £80.
I am running a cheapo £18.99 eBay special.in my scooby and it's fine.
Walbro pumps are sweet . I’d be weary of a cheap one
Thanks for the tips on new pumps. I decided to soldier (and solder) on with the old one, and after a new set of o rings, a bit of gluing and scrubbing with every kind of solvent in the garage, we’ve got a leak-free pump purring away;
Meanwhile back on the business end, the great engine strip down has begun. The are so many fuel and breather hoses I’m not sure I’ll ever get it back together, but under it all there is something I recognise - a Type 4 crank case! It really is caked in hardened dirt and I’m beginning to feel more like an archeologist. It looks like someone tried to service and recommission it but gave up - the dizzy cap, plugs and filters look unused. On the bad side, the no 4 plug was cross threaded- not badly, so I hope I can chase the head thread out.
And the other bad news is that the engine is seized. Humph. I’m hoping it just because it’s been sat for possibly 30 years and which ever cylinder has had both valves open has got a bit furry. I’m going to pour diesel down the plug holes and wait and see what happens. Bit of a pain being a flat 4 as I think I’ll need to upturn it and do two cylinders at a time, unless anyone has any better ideas?
This weekend’s bulletin;
I’ve spilt the gearbox from the engine, whipped out the clutch and made good use of my £34 engine stand. As with everything else, the clutch was fully caked in crud. Not sure what to do with it yet; the flywheel could do with a skim, but a new clutch including the bearing is is a whopping £500. Will measure some thicknesses and have a think. Anyone know the best way to clean the clutch bearing?
At the other end I’ve started scrubbing up the FI gear. The cold start injector has been persuaded back into life, the throttle valve unsiezed and the auxiliary air valve has reluctantly started to regulate again. Air temperature sensor seems happy enough but the cold start themo-switch is a bit suspect - currently in the freezer awaiting more poking. The injectors have been brushed up and flushed through. Overall I’m hopeful the D Jetronic can be coaxed to work again.
And the great soaking of the barrels in diesel has begun to free up the motor. Any tips graetefully received.
Anyone any recommendations for powder coaters and engine workshops for the flywheel skim in SW London and ideally on me doorstep in Twickenham? Ta.
A trifling £281.58 from Design 911 uk. http://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod1...ch-Plate--Pressure-Plate-and-Release-Bearing/
Just google local powder coasters that’s how I found my local one.
This one came up after a google search.
Powder coating, my work uses Swallow Enterprises in Slough. Been using them for years.
Oooh- I might have a bit of that- there’s a 5% March discount too.
When I tried google it came up with one that coats your conservatory. Hoping for one that’s seen a bit of VW tinware before. That one isn’t too far away so will give’m a go, TVM.
Ah - that sounds promising too - thanks. Will try them too.
Ha! Will persevere with the engine I’ve got before throwing in the towel with a replacement, but that one would fit the bill nicely, thanks.
This weekend’s engine tinkering was curtailed by the weather so I spent some time on the ancillaries. I stripped down cleaned, painted and greased the starter motor and it runs very freely now.
Similarly the dizzy has come up nicely. I’m really impressed by the quality of this original kit; thankfully the trigger contacts for the ECU look hardly used (they only last about 40k miles apparently and a new set are a whopping $200).
After a week of pouring diesel down one bank of cylinders I’ve swapped to the other side. But so far the crank remains stubbornly frozen. Hoping for some movement by next weekend - I’ve never had to do this before so and advice welcomed.
Also, the fan isn’t wanting to come off it’s hub - any tips for helping it on its way?
It should come off fairly easily, remove three bolts and work it back and forward, a few light taps might be necessary but don’t break a fan blade. Once you get the fan off the hub don’t split the pulley from the fan – you want get it back exactly in the same place and it’ll need to be rebalanced if you do. Getting the hub off the crank might be more difficult, you can use the three threaded holes for a simple puller.
Thanks for that. I’ve taken the three screws out of the fan and given it a light tap but it’s stuck tight. It’s been soaking it in Plusgas, and I might put the heat gun on it to warm it through as it was blumming cold yesterday which won’t have helped. Good tip about not splitting the pulley from the fan, TVM.
Right, got that fan off. Needed a fair bit of persuasion - improvised puller made of three nuts and bolts jammed in the hole did the trick.
I rather like the original stamp on the fan saying ‘Fuel Injection Engine’
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