Top end rebuild tips.

So having finally turned the corner on the body work I'm looking to get new B&P's and Cyclinder Heads for my 2ltr CJ engine with weber 34 carbs.
I've read a few threads here on machined rebuilds giving extra punch but a lot of hassle and I lack masses of know how but have done a standard rebuild a couple of times. I'm going with the keep it simple stupid approach.

I'm poised to get GSF's standard B&P's and AMC cylinder heads from a German supplier on Ebay but does anyone out there have some 'go to' suppliers for standard 2ltr engines I should look at first?

Also am I bound by the engine code to get heads with rectangular exhaust ports or are there either options available to me? Current Heat exchangers are oval ones.

Cheers fellas

 

keep it simple . Stupid.. ....no really ,performance gains aren’t really worth it with these engines unless you go all out, Go 1 up on the cam if your picky ...and that’s it ...that’s what I did . And it’s a daily runner. No hassles

 

What cam do you have with the ICT's Mark?

 

An upgrade to 2056cc using 96mm barrels and pistons doesn’t need any machining and your existing carbs should work okay.

The engine code doesn’t make any difference to which heads you use but if you have oval port heat exchangers use oval port heads.

 

Thanks, for that 77westy a cheeky no frills upgrade! Would you suggest anywhere particularly for the 96mm barrels and piston?

On a side note there was a lot of chat on various threads about engines needing more guts to get up hills than a standard 2ltr provided. Mine went over the Alps through Switzerland and the only thing I wished for was power steering on the switch backs!

 

If I was picky I'd have done a better job on the body work!
I think I'll wait until I've run the life out of the recon bottom end I have as I'm time and money short but thanks for the tip. A future consideration for sure!

 

Yeah mine used to cruise at 70 all day too! I dream of those times.

 

I did the switchbacks in the Alps last year with the Westy 2.0 fi. Loaded up with a bunch of junk.water food .slow but go. It is what it is. Although I wish I had power steering as well.I’ve been in faster torqued ,buses. All I wanna do is get there and camp and I not get my hands dirty. That’s just me.

 

My sentiments exactly. If I wanted a race I'd be in a different vehicle with better fuel efficiency and the rest. I just want it to run. Got some great looks from the Italians as we chugged through, along the lines of "what the .... are you thinking driving that thing all the way over here!"

 

I live in the Monts du Lyonnais at 600 metres and my 2.0l bus has been in the Alps many times without any problems - except the oil temperature needs to be watched. I’ve recently built a 2.3l engine and it certainly goes over passes easier than the 2.0l but it needs an external oil cooler.

And it has power steering.

Incidentally, there was no machining required for the 2.3l engine and it was no more difficult to build than a 2.0l. Well, not much more anyway. I bought all the major components from the US and if I were just buying 96mm B&Ps I’d probably get them from AA. https://aapistons.com/products/vw-porsche-2-0-96mm-piston-cylinder-kit-914-type-4

Or Cool Air https://www.coolairvw.co.uk/Item/Sh..._-OB-For_Use_On_2000cc_Type_4_Engine-CB-.html

Or VWH https://www.vwheritage.com/ac198960-barrel-pistons-96x71-2056cc-for-20-litre-type-4-vw-spare

 

Hey there. You mentioned going one up on the cam. I've just recieved my new top end and after a brief and informative rustle through Tom Wilsons 'How to rebuild your VW air cooled engine' I'm now reassessing the wear on my cam lobes. There definitely is some despite it being recon and having done few miles. Would you know what prices would be involved in putting a new one in? "Looks like we're going to need a bigger.... bank balance"

 

What did you get?

 

I took your cue and went for the 96mm B&P's and rang up VWH who knocked off a not inconsiderable amount after a Late Bay named drop, plus cyclinder heads, some new filters for the carbs a couple of engine mounts and a gasket kit.

I thought I was all set until I read through the first few pages of the Tom Wilson! Now I'm wondering how much wear on a cam lobe is too much and if I will ruin my spanking new top end by trying to get a bit more life out of the recon bottom end...? It's one part time issue as I really want to get on the road and one part money as I don't know what a new cam will be but given the intricate nature of it (beyond my wit I reckon) I probably need to find someone else to do it. What say you?

 

Changing a cam doesn’t end with changing one part. One thing leads to another, a new cam needs new followers and bearings and if you’re splitting the crankcase you might as well fit new main and big end bearings, and of course new seals and gaskets.

If the cam is worn I’d do all of the above and if you can see the typical Type 4 cam wear pattern it’s probably worn out. What you do really depends on how long you want the engine to last.

 

I originally went down a similar route. My engine was an 1800 type 4 Vege recon which again had not done a lot of miles. I did a top end upgrade a couple of years ago as the compressions weren’t great due to blowing at a head joint.
As usual you start a job & open a can of worms.
I had to also replace the heads due to worn valve guides & cracks.
Went with the 1911 AA b&p’s and new AMC heads. The engine has run well after but recently has been noticibly noisy (clanking) when cold. Sounded like piston slap.
I decided to set about building another engine as a winter project. Armed with a Bentley manual. Wilson’s book & Raby’s video. Also of course help from knowledgeable folk on here i have built a 2.0 motor.
If you are good with the spanners and have the time, patience and the funds I would recommend giving it a go.
Take a look at Deefer 66’s type 4 engine rebuild thread on here, very well put together.

 

Cheers for all the tips @77Westy they are gratefully recieved.

Ok I've been digesting your words (deciding whether to risk it) it seems to me I've got 3 options and perhaps you or some other clued up person could help me with direction on 2 of them.

1. Build it and run it in gently listening out for tell tale signs and getting a feel for whether its worn out through loss of power etc. Considerations: risks damaging my brand new top end. But it is a reconditioned case with few miles so perhaps there's some life in it yet?

2. Look to part ex the case for another recon. This cost me about £400 last time but that was 10 years ago.

3. Find someone to put a new cam and all the other bits in the existing case. I don't know of anyone and chances are the decent mechanics are up to their eyes in similar rescue operations so nothing will happen quickly. Also it may be a similar cost to option 2 and whilst a better job will be slower.

Any recommendations or ideas gratefully recieved. Cheers!

 

You must have a crystal ball.
Time, Patience and Funds at an all time low.
I'll check the rebuild thread so thanks for that but my spanner skills don't go much beyond bolt on bolt off. Now I'm closing in on the bodywork completion I really just want to get on the road. I know I could be creating more trouble for myself though.