Timber Rock and Roll bed using Westy hinges.

Discussion in 'How To' started by Dicky, Feb 2, 2014.

  1. This isnt an exact how-to as my particular requirements might not be yours but my brief is to convert from a 3/4 bed to full width. The bed will need to accomodate my gas bottle and water containers so hight is an issue. The floor in my van is raised as it has boarding with a foam underlay. The rear shelf also has the same board and foam underlay.

    Long story short ive looked at metal rock and roll beds but as a rule they dont have and easy bed to sofa action like the westy does. Which I like. The other reason is I can make it whatever size I want to fit my stuff under.

    My intention was to use Westy hinges as these have the facility to bolt them to the wheel arches (not the seat belt points!), the shelf above the engine as well as to the bed side panels which will result in quite a sturdy construction.

    I decided to avoid woodscrews and end up with a construction that was bolted together for sturdiness and also to make it easy to disassemble and re-assemble as im prototyping my new interior and it will get swapped and changed around. Also this is how Westys end up being of such sturdy construction.

    The timber is 18mm sof-wood ply from B+Q. The hinges are Westy repros (Helsinki/Berlin style), The hardware is from screwfix, B+Q and my local engineering suppliers. Hinges were from NLA.

    Hinges
    Nottingham-20140119-00469.jpg
    The hinge has a step in it as you can see. This is where the backrest sits when it falls back into the bed position. One issue here - that might not be an issue for you, is that on the Westy there are different thicknesses of foam and the main mattress over the engine is quite thin. The foam on the seats also isnt that thick and I want to use 4 inch foam for all the cusions. Would have gone thicker but the hinges arent designed for thicker foam than that and 4 inches is about the limit.

    I got some measurements from other members on here of the westy berlin and helsinkin beds and adapted to suit. I got the main parts of the timber cut to size at B+Q and trimmed at home as necessary. The only issue here being that for a full width bed then 2 full sheets are needed. Think you can do a 3/4 bed with one 8x4 foot sheets.

    Ive spent a good few hours working out dimensions and screwing the thing together temporarily. Then used coach bolts but didnt like them so went for some 8mm stainless socket cap screws (dome head). The bed boards are secured to the hinges with similar 6mm screws into Tee-nuts. So what you see in the pictures is purely the final build.

    Bed - box construction
    Nottingham-20140202-00495.jpg
    Base with angle brackets attached

    Nottingham-20140202-00496.jpg
    Side panel/hinge panels attached

    Nottingham-20140202-00497.jpg
    From the back

    Nottingham-20140202-00499.jpg
    Hinges fitted

    Nottingham-20140202-00501.jpg

    bed box placed in situ
     
    NewtoVW likes this.
  2. Nottingham-20140202-00502.jpg

    This is where the hinges bolt to the rear shelf. Westys have factory inserts here. Riv-nuts can be inserted if these arent present. Note ive straightened the step out as the hinges sit higher than they would in the Helsinki!

    Nottingham-20140202-00503.jpg

    This is where the hinges bolt to the arch. Bit of a gap for me as I straightened the top of the hinges out. Not fitting as yet as bed has to come out. heres some rot on the arches that needs making good. I will bolt upwrads from the arch using a spreader plate on the outside . Another on the inside and myloc nut on the top.

    Nottingham-20140202-00504.jpg
    See square plate with 8mm bolt - Westys have a fixing here for the beds, also the oval hole at the rear is to access the factory seat brackets.

    Nottingham-20140202-00506.jpg

    Backrest attatched to hinges

    Nottingham-20140202-00508.jpg

    Seat base attached to hinges

    Nottingham-20140202-00509.jpg

    Bed supports fitted

    Nottingham-20140202-00510.jpg

    Mechanism works fine

    Nottingham-20140202-00512.jpg

    A metal strengthener is needed for the bed brackets to rest on and to stop the front flexing




    .
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2014
    Aang, AdyF, Diddymen and 1 other person like this.
  3. Whe hey!. Nice write up @Dicky....should be solid. Any thoughts on trim/decorative fascia? More importantly, are you going to make an in-built Crissue dispenser? Looks like you have enough room down the right hand side;)

    Seeing as the trim panels are off at the moment, is there any chance you measure the depth between the van wall and where the trim panel would fit? I'm looking at the top recess above the X...it's crying out for a bedside cubby hole....

    Your thoughts on the NLA replica hinges?
     
    Dicky likes this.
  4. kenregency

    kenregency Guest

    well done Dicky nice job:thumbsup:
     
    Dicky likes this.
  5. Maybe post as a How to 'sticky'?
     
  6. This is how the bed supports rest on the front panel with the L shaped steel in place. Hvent fitted this as yet.

    Nottingham-20140202-00513.jpg

    Bed position

    Nottingham-20140202-00514.jpg

    Nice and level!

    Nottingham-20140202-00515.jpg

    Seat position

    Nottingham-20140202-00517.jpg

    Under seat looking forwards with gas bottle - just fits!

    Nottingham-20140202-00519.jpg

    Water container is a bit snug too.

    Onto foams and covers soon - also needs armrests!
     

    Attached Files:

    Colin and Lasty like this.
  7. Cubby hole is a good idea - its crying out for it. Will measure but not just now - bit late.
     
  8. "Water container is a bit snug too"

    what are you complaining about? You've got at least 1mm clearance to play with;)
     
  9. A miss is as good as a mile was chuffed that it turned out how I planned it tbh!
     
  10. How about this: a fibreglass insert with flanged edge all round, so it's a case of cutting out the trim panel and slot it in....bit like a trapezodal fish pond liner (for want of a better analogy)
     
  11. you sound surprised....:D
     
    Dicky likes this.
  12. at the end of the day, with 18mm ply, you could rout 10mm out for clearance above the bottle, and it'll still be strong enough
     
  13. Ive been thinking myself about that space. Its in a good position. The armresets that cover the gap at either side - well i was thinking a good hight for them would be the bed hight so they dont stick up when in bed mode. The top is jus about level with the opening. Be a good place for ipod dock into stereo on the one side!
     
  14. There was the option of cutting a hole in the base board. the size of the gas bottle base. That would have given me about 20mm. Might be a good idea to do anyway as I will need to put a vent in there! (drop out!)
     
    paradox likes this.
  15. The hinge is similar to yours I think. It's the actual mounting position that's puzzling as I can not get it simultaneously right in both bed and seat mode.
     
  16. Looks great @Dicky. Do you have the sizes for the arm rests or do you need them?
     
  17. Hey! Got them somewhere but will be in touch if I cant find them.

    Thinking at the moment is to finish off and then get another front cut to the template and laminate finish but may have some cut-outs yet for heater, mains unit, etc!
     
  18. Dunno if it helps but if you know what hight the bed position is then cant you clamp it in that position. Wherever the brackets land must be where they go! When ive done rock and roll bed before ive simply fixed a single flat board screwed to the hinges then manouvered it to approx where it needs to be then marked out the hinge mounting holes in the upright, with the bed level with the engine shelf you cant be wrong. Its a similar approach!
     

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