The old fuel pipe issue !!! Who can you trust !!!

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by 3901mick, Jun 22, 2018.

  1. How much do you need to change all the old pipe?
     
  2. Yes. There’s a good diagram that gets posted on here frequently - worth searching that out as it shows you what to connect where.
     
    chewabledrapery likes this.
  3. Thanks I'll have a dig

    Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk
     
  4. Last edited: Jul 11, 2018
    chewabledrapery likes this.
  5. Ratwell has a list
     
    mjones1969 likes this.
  6. What can we do about the 40+ year old filler hoses (6 & 7 in the above diagram)?
    Can anyone find replacements that are specified for modern fuels?
    The safest thing to do is not completely fill the tank, unless you are immediately about to use up a gallon or two and therefore reducing the exposure/risk time.

    However this opens up a much wider issue. If hose specs have changed so much in recent years to cater for modern fuels, then any car over say 10-20 years old could be at risk of an engine fire. Is the fuel hose part of the MOT? It should be, and all older spec hoses should be replaced.
     
  7. Anybody tried fuel treatments?
     
  8. What would be the point?
     
  9. Counteracts the effects of ethanol such as water absorption and the issues it brings such as diluted fuel, stale fuel, rust and gummed up parts.

    It works really well for a vehicle that is being stored if used as per the instructions. The idea is to fill your tank to 95% to limit the amount of atmosphere and reduce the tank from rusting then adding the stabiliser and running the engine so that it lines all fuel line components
     
  10. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    If you keep your tank filled to 95% or more, there will not be a lot of air in contact with the fuel to extract moisture from anyway. When it is less full then the surface area of the fuel increases.

    Probably better off using an additive just before you try starting it to improve the volatiles in the fuel.

    The fuel that dribbles into the carburettor over the winter may still evaporate .. maybe use a shutoff valve before storage so you can run the carburettor empty, or with the right fuel pump or a solenoid valve you can only evaporate one float chambers worth after the ignition is turned off.


    Additives will not stop many of the components of modern fuel just soaking through the fuel lines, removing the plasticiser and making the hoses go hard with the high temperatures in some corners of the engine bay.

    Better to spend on modern high temperature rated ethanol rated fuel hose first.

    Buy additives .. but the MSDS on a lot of them just indicate they are mostly naptha (a standard traditional component of petrol).. with a bit of longer chained "diesel" to help decoke pistons.

    Or choose a dry day and take it out for a drive from time to time every month or so..
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2024
    rsbadura and BarryDean like this.

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