Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by top banana racing, Aug 27, 2015.
Fitted new seatbelt, then plumbed in external oil pressure sensor, took me ages to find the bit of oil pipe I had specially made up to connect the remote sensor, it was kicking around the Bus all summer, then I went and tidied it up
Fitted new sound insulation above the perforated tins in the engine bay. Really glad I once picked up a quality 1/4 inch flexible drive thats about 2 feet long at the local brickworks museum for 50 p. Stuck a 6mm drill in it and I could reach all of the original pop rivets.
Used 30mm aluminium faced adhesive closed cell black foam to replace toasted lambswool in a melted plastic bag.
Replaced OG big head pop rivets with standard 5mm pop rivets with M6 penny washers... just as well the yacht chandlers is 200m down the hill in the marina.
Then spliced in a £20 Chinese LSU4.2 lambda sensor clone into the PLX AFR . It was going on the blink after an hour of driving .. and indicating incorrectly beforehand. It had done about 60k miles.
Then stuck the remainder of my foam sheet in the tailgate, on the engine lid and under the rear seat.
Not bad for 2 metres of foam.
I thought Chinese 4.2 was "Crispy Duck"?
I think I'll replace my 'lambswool in a melted plastic bag' insulation.
Put it back on it wheels for the first time in nearly a year just got to sort the windscreen and doors then paint.
As @Mark Darby 's shown us all up with his fancy wiring diagram , thought I'd better tidy up my fag-packet stuff. Very soothing...
Back to the drawing board for me as the uploaded file doesn't have an allowed extension.
Now that looks like a proper professional job. All nice and neat and every legible. No spaghetti junction stuff, just lots of clear parallel lines. The thing with the new style is if I can't see where the ends go, I can't get it
Plenty more to go on it, if I could only find all the fag packets I wrote it down on...
I took the bus to work. The 30mm foam has converted a harsh engine roar into a duller but still noticeable engine note. At idle its starting to be swamped by noisy cars beside it in traffic queues.
Just to prove I was distracted I drove all the way home on 4 watt LED side lights which are dim but very bright for side lights.
They make you think the headlights are very dirty as you can still see the road in pitch darkness. ...
Walked past it. It’s almost officially a proper rat van.
Changed the fuel metering valve in the carburettor- it was surging and juddering after cruising at 45mph on the M27.
The AFR gauge showed very rich too..
It took a mere 30 minutes from start to finish in the works car park.
Old valve has a noticeable wear ring.
Let's try again. All done!
Succumbed to temptation and curiosity and fitted LED H4 headlight units from Classic Car LEDs. Now I have new converted Beetle reflector bowls with a proper H4 spring clip retainer fitting I can easily fit a range of H4 type bulbs, which wasn’t possible with the stock p45t fittings that the bus came with (early ‘73).
The uprated halogens weren’t bad, and as good as I was going to get, but they still left a lot to desired especially on the country lanes around here where I’ve had two deer collisions just this year. Anything that helps see more is welcome.
LED replacements have come a long way especially compared to the dangerous HID conversions from a decade ago.
Pleasantly surprised. The warm white 3000K colour is indistinguishable from halogen and the main benefit is a better spread of light, particularly on high beam where I used to get a dark patch in front of the bus which was quite disconcerting.
They’re a bit of a squeeze to get them in what with the extra wiring and ‘ballast’ units, and tricky to keep the bus wiring away from the heat sinks, but not impossible.
They took a little tweaking to get them set up correctly. They come with adjustable base plates and are set to an angle that is supposed to be correct for RHD but I found it to be way out causing a sloping rather than horizontal centre cut-off line on low beam.
I think I was expecting to have a very precise beam shape and delineation like on factory modern HIDs:LEDs but obviously that’s more a result of reflector technology, whereas our old headlights use the lens to refract the light rather than the mirror to shape it.
And there doesn’t seem to be any prismatic multi-coloring on the cut-off line either which is a relief. I hate that purple/blue flashing you get from oncoming cars as they go over bumps and you go from being able to see to being blinded.
They don’t appear massively ‘brighter’ (because they’re not whiter like uprated halogens), just more light everywhere you want it and thankfully not where it shouldn’t be. I presume this is a result of the precision made quality aluminum and precisely positioned LEDs to mimic the original filament position.
Heat doesn’t seem to be anything like the issue I thought it would be either, which was another concern. Weren’t that hot when I removed them just after turning off.
I’ll keep some halogens, spare wiring and fuses to hand just in case.
Time will tell but so far so good.
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This morning, after giving it a trial run last night to the chip shop, where the last thing it did was re-blocked the idle jet, I took the carburettor off, cleaned it out thoroughly and put it back. Reset the idle mixture and drove to the garden centre and it was all finally like it was before.
Changed the oil.
The old perforated hardboard impregnated with 40 years of oil vapour burns extremely well. I tested it!
Rip it out and use it for firelighting.
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