Hi all, Proper novice question from a proper novice / newbie!! I / a friend is fitting a 1.9 TDi VW engine into a 79 Bay for me, I've spoken to a company that carries out conversions with Scooby engines and tey have advised I look for a T25 diesel bellhousing to mate to the TDi engine. Bay currently has a Scooby lump and the original air is nowhere to be seen hence the TDi. Can anyone confirm / dent that this is the correct bellhousing I need and any ideas where I may be able to source on from cheaply. Cheers all
have you tried here? some threads about Subaru lumps tdi versions not sure about any others... http://forums.tdiclub.com/
It is indeed a T25 diesel bell housing you need, and dependant what engine you go, for the sump as well. Once you have this the world is almost your oyster regarding VW Engines. A few come up on E Bay, VZI etc or alternatively see if someone near you is breaking one. Good luck! We are currently in the process of putting in a 1.8 GTI engine to our crew cab bay. What was wrong with the Scooby Conversion? Do you still have the adaptor plate etc? Mrs B
Burntout, thank you so much for this. I am using a MK4 golf 110 bhp engine with everything else from the car - my mate is breaking it and told me to take whatever I need and he will scrap the rest!! The Scooby engine, adaptor and everything and more is still for sale - its a friends bus what I'm buying and hes done the Scooby work - I just dont want it to be honest. Think he also has wiring loom and ecu. This is up for sale if anyone interested.
Do you know Is there a specific year/date/engine model where a T25 bell housing becomes redundant with a VW group engine conversion? I bought a T25 b/h to use for an engine bench test and it has a completely different clutch mechanism on the side. I ask because I know the location of a 'free' corrado VR6 but assumed that it wouldn't be a straight forward swap with the need to add adaptor plates etc
Hi Joker, this is definitely not something I can answer but I have been advised to look for an early T25 box. I know, you would never believe I was a complete novice at all this!!
@3TNC How much you after for the Subaru Conversion etc? Surprised you want to swap and go the expense of an already good conversion.
I really didnt want a Jap engine in a German motor, wanted to keep it OEM++++ ish!! I will forward any offers to my mate and he can decide - dont quote me but think hes looking over half what he paid for it.
Which is how much? Interested - PM if you would sooner. If you can, keep hold of the car until you have done the conversion, it will be the silly things that end up costing a lot that you forget to remove. We are using a MK2 Golf so there wasn't as many electrics needed as a MK4. However, its amazing how few we needed, fortunately we had a friend that was our local VW Dealers technician. (Phew) who helped us strip the engine and cables. For your conversion you will definitely need the sump (From a T25 Diesel like I said earlier), this enables the engine to work at the different angle, the engine mounts (from T25 Diesel), the ECU from the Golf (and look after it, these aren't cheap) and the dipstick (from T25 diesel). Not sure if you will need the oil pump from the golf or the T25 Diesel - they may be the same. If not then its the T25 one you need - they are readily available from VW Heritage etc.
Not that I am aware of at the moment. However the T25 Diesel bell housing is only suitable for the 4 Cylinder Engines, for the 5 Cylinder, VR6 etc you would need to use an adaptor plate from Kennedy. As far as I know the T25 diesel bell housing fits all 4 cylinder engines up to at least the MK4, I haven't taken a MK5 upwards apart to know With regards to the clutch on a 4 Cylinder you can either put a clutch master cylinder into the bay so you can use the hydraulic clutch, or remove the hydraulic clutch from the side of the T25 diesel bell housing and swap the bay one over with it. Hope this makes sense, its easy to do it and think it but putting it into words for others to understand doesn't always work.
I am having the loom, ecu, engine, clocks (for the canbus) and all the other bits needed. Many thanks for the parts list though. Will PM you re the Scooby lump
The engine is from a MK4 non PD - been told to steer clear of the PD engines as the cams are very soft and have a tendancy to twist or snap and thats a costly repair.
Its the cams on the PD150 that are made of chocolate the 130 less so, even though they are identical... The PD100 ones are tough as old boots. The non PD are easier to fit as they don't have the same level of sophistication to them **Edit** Although it does seem to depend on the year of PD150 as I have as GTTDI 150 and have inspected them and they were like new
@burntout that sounds like a quad cam, and whatever it is it's turbo'd.... Check this thread out - http://thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/edi-76-superfly-tdi.30254/#post-506373 @easy-does-it is doing a conversion as you describe. Be careful with Canbus on the Mk4 - am not sure they all had it, I know we worked on many that didn't,
I have a loom genius that will sort everything out for me and basically build a MK4 loom to fit perfectly into the Bay. May experiment with trying to graft the MK4 clocks into the T2 holes - who knows if it'll work but would look more stock than the T2 with the MK4 dash in it.
Cool. Mr B hates the lectrickery side of things, it is just voodoo black magic to him, so that will be another one of my jobs. We aren't swapping the clocks over. So guess that's one less thing to worry about.
Why would you want to graft the clocks over - if you are assuming you need them can I attempt to make your life a bit easier?! You can leave the speedo as is, same for lights etc.....the only signal I can see of use is a rev counter - you could pick this up with a canbus controller and map it to a digital rpm gauge, or some form of Digital to analogue transformer to power a VDO rev counter that fits where the clock sits. Water temp requires additional gauges - there are stick on transponders that you wack on the radiator core that would drive an additional gauge for this - I don't think diesel needs a boost gauge. You can probably ditch most of the clocks, or at least splice the wiring and put them somewhere else. I would still urge you to check the donor is in fact canbus - not all of them are.
