Subaru conversion start

Discussion in 'Modified Shizzle' started by pkrboo, Mar 27, 2017.

  1. Could someone give me a bit of understanding about coolant flow.

    In these pics from earlier in the thread the T piece comes out and up to the expansion tank.

    Does coolant flow around that quite freely (even though its going up/vertical) or does it act like a sort of vent for air to escape?

    I'm looking to 'tap' off into a reducer and need a good flow of coolant to pass through a 16mm temp sensor. This looks like the place to tap in but the fact its vertical makes me hesitate.

    PG

     
  2. Ignore that pic!!
     
  3. any reason why, I did the same on mine .. no good ?
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2018
  4. I'll find a better pic of what I changed mine to when I get home
     
    theBusmonkey likes this.
  5. lost your key ? :burp:
     
  6. so you have just moved it further along. I was reading back, that was due to your back box clearance wasn't it.

    I don't have clearance problems so is there any reason it couldn't stay where it is or was there other reasons to move it ?

    thanks for uploading, so the coolant does coolant flow around that quite freely (even though its going up/vertical)?

    Ah.. :edit:. Just realised its flowing down so yes.... thanks for the pic Pkrboo
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2018
  7. Yes flows freely.

    Out of the bottom of the bottle to the heater return which puts hot water to the back of the thermostat and helps quicker warm up times

    Into the top of the bottle from the hot outlet from the engine.

    This way the engine warms up quicker as the hot from the heater return is constantly putting hot water into the stat meaning it is regulated better
     
  8. on the crossdresser pipe (LHS of pic) you have the flow towards back of engine but at the other end where it protrudes out from the engine up to heater matrix the flow is different way.

    so is that becuase the engine is pumping up into the crossdresser pipe so main coolant for the rad goes off one way and whats left flows around the heater matrix i.e both way ?

    *cross over not dresser.. latebay forum auto correct :lol:
     
  9. The coolant pipe that sits on top of the engine outputs from the engine and hot water goes to the rad and the heater at the same time.
     
    StuF and pgtips like this.
  10. I'm really struggling to bleed the air from my coolant system after changing the pipes about. I tried a vacuum kit but that was more mess than I expected and didn't really do the job.
    Currently it's up on jack's as high as I can go but I wondered if anyone else has an idea on this (air out) is there a trick ? most of the stuff on the net isn't really right for an underbelly setup
     
  11. Get the back up high like you have. You need to slowly fill the coolant bottle and let it drain fully into the system before putting more in each time,

    If you fill the bottle and let it drain in it pushes air in and makes it harder to get the air out
     
    pgtips likes this.
  12. Thanks .I'm on the right track just soo many bends
     
  13. Dubs

    Dubs Sponsor

    When you run it up, squeeze the bottom hose by the thermostat a few times every couple of minutes, until the thermostat opens.
     
  14. Fill the bottle SLOWLY

    Also, make sure you have no uphill runs from the bottle
     
  15. when using the Subaru 5 speed, are the subaru drive shafts used or is there a conversion to fit the VW ones ?

    I kinda fall in and out of love with my van, love the look of it, love how it drives, but it is just a bit slow, If it cruised at 65 /70 I would probably use it more , as it is 60 for short bursts is manageable

    How high is the rear end of your van ? ( to OP ) interesting to see you didnt have all the faffing around with the sump..

    How well protected is the radiator ? Ive kicked up a few rocks that have bounced along underneath the van
     
  16. Subarugears uses standard VW driveshafts, there are adaptor flanges that go in the output stubs of the gearbox.

    My rad is well protected by the scoop, but not the opening, not had a problem so far.

    The lowered sump isnt hard to do at all. Nick tune makes a sump that is a straight bolt on, bolt off
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2018
  17. Are you thinking of going Subaru? I'm really glad I did, reliability and keeping up with the traffic has made it for me. I have a standard height bus but short sump, I think @Sick Boy started out running with a standard sump and then got it swapped out for a reduced height one. Radiator has been fine so far.
     
  18. Nah, I thought about it when I was doing the resto, even bought the bits at one point, but there was just to many varying opinions on the gearbox, I had a 6 rib for the conversion hat came with the whole kit I bought off a fella in here.. I ended up selling it back to him after a year in the crate ..

    My honest thought were that it wasn't worth the effort unless it was 5 speed and at the time I wasn't keen to do the subaru gearbox mods and pay for the new crown wheel and pinion.. So I dropped in a 1740 with twin carbs and called it done .. Van goes OK but I get proper annoyed with the brain dead drivers glued to the rear bumper when the overtakes are on .. Basically its a good van let down by its inability to crack on at a constant and consistent speed without the worry of it either blowing up or seizing solid... Sometimes you just feel the need to trot on.. and maybee even pass the odd white van .. or audi A4..
     
    Pickles and Bulletooth like this.

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