Discussion in 'Modified Shizzle' started by pkrboo, Mar 27, 2017.
Yes, it has a twin box silencer system going on
Can you remind me which final drive ratio you want for on the gearbox?
And do you have a pic of your bus from the side? I remember I liked the stance you had.
4.1:1 I think is what you want for quiet cruising
I have 4.4:1 but I tow so need to be quicker of the line.
Is this pic any good?
I went for the 4.2:1.
According to those that know, it makes pretty much bugger all difference.
Yeah very little in it. I thought yours is a 4.1:1
Just checked, you’re right!
Sorry, I have a weird memory for numbers and digits
A 4.1:1 will give 70 mph at about 3000rpm approx
A 4.4:1 will give 70 mph at about 3200rpm approx
This obviously depends on tyre size and the ratio of the gears inside the gearbox as well but this will leave a negligible affect.
^^^ That don’t make no sense!?
On their website they recommend 4.44 for ej20 na but I remembered @Baysearcher was running something smaller.
And yes, I think you're both right and in the end it only makes very little difference.
Great posts guys, this thread has loads of useful info for researching/doing the Subaru swap
Does the subaru belhousing attach to the upper rubber mounts in the bay or it is supported by the tusks and engine?
I am currently stripping my forester loom and planning ahead - so far no conversions parts acquired as in two mind RJES vs Subarugears, this thread is a real inspiration
No just tusks at the front and engine mount. RJES engine mount uses the standard Subaru mounts so is very close to the gearbox end anyway. Same amount of mounts in a Subaru.
you are making/selling or Richard (RJES)
the "car heater hose" across the front across the front, could you tell me where that goes from, looks like expansion tank?
I'm at the connect hoses stage and its a bit difficult to figure out how it goes. There's also 2 pipes off the water pump, 1 for rad and 1 other, could you tell me where that connects.
Hope you don't mind, I've got a few of these to figure out so appreciate your help.
Can you indicate which hose you mean. The one near the coil pack? That is just from the right-hand cylinder oil breather hose. Goes into a 4 way tee and into the inlet as per the original filter box.
The exhaust manifold had been modded to fit and work with the engine bar/mount that rjes sells.
Stick a pic up of where you are at and I will help out where I can.
Outlet from the water pump? As I. The bottom of the engine? Small one goes up and to the ehatwr and the other big one is the return from the rad.
some pics of almost all the pipes, (its image heavy) I've numbered them up. I've never had or seen the engine in the car so not 110% certain what goes where so here goes. Any help filling in the blanks I'd be very grateful. You might notice some additional plumbing (which is connected) that's for LPG.
Heater matrix, forms the end of a loop, 15mm in and out. Not numbered these are 2 x 15mm.
Coming out of the water pump are 2 pipes, one large to the radiator and another 15mm one, #1 & #2
#2 (15mm) to the heater. And I have just spotted that black pipe hanging down, would that be oil overflow? Does it connect somewhere?
Expansion tank 3 and 4, what connects to these 2 pipes
Then at the back of the engine, I have 2 more 15mm pipes 5 and 6.
The silver one #6 goes across the engine like this, one end to the radiator so I assume other end must be to heater in first pic.?
here this picture taken looking up at that same silver pipe plus the black one, 5 and 6, from underneath the engine. What connects to these?
I don't think they both go to heater matrix. ? In my picture one is black, one silver.
7, 8 and 9 are from the RJES throttle body kit. I assume 7 & 8 go to the rocker breather pipes but what does 9 connect to. He sent me a pipe but I can't find its logical other end unless its 11 (next)
Tucked away, looking top down on the engine at the back LHS are these 2, one black (#10) with 2 connections and a pipe which looks like it might be a water pipe (I assume as its a bit discoloured) #11, but where do they attach? and if you can tell me where that bronze threaded sensor on the left screws in that would be really helpful.
Fuel pipes, 13 fuel in from the pump, I'm assuming my old VW FI pump will still be ok.?
14 and 15 all around the fuel, one must be a return (think 15) but I'm unsure on the other
and just for completeness here a picture of the other end of #6 to the radiator I've labelled #16. So #1 and #16 connect to rad, they have OD of 38mm and inside of 30mm. A 1.5" tube for these.
If you can help me fill in the blanks I'd be really grateful.
anything else i have missed?
I'm planning on ordering stainless 304 grade tube to the rads (apparently copper might go brittle under vibration and ally corrodes white).
For the heater matrix I thought using rubber silicone tube. My heater matrix may be fitted inside the cab as I don't have suitable shelf underneath and it will retain a bit more heat.
Thanks for your help with this.
These diagrams from RJES should help, he really knows his stuff,
There's also some good info about material choice for coolant pipes regarding galvanic voltage - stainless steel is bad!
And also some information about the hearer circuit - it needs a bypass/through valve on the heater loop to operate as intended.
RJES is good but he mainly caters for T25 that were already watercooled. which is what most of his diagrams ad explanations are about.
Coolant circuit i tried his way but it didnt work. i have the hater connected in a conventional way, as per Subaru intended. so heater pipes connected normally and then the outlet from the expansion bottle goes to the top and bottom hoses. bottom of expansion tank to the return from rad hose(bottom) and the top of the expansion bottle to the top hose.
heater bypass is only needed if you do not have a heater that is always flowing. mine has coolant pumped around it constantly and is only switched off by the fans being turned off. thee is no coolant throttle and therefore no need for the heater bypass ala RJES.
coolant pipes yeah ok i read it and i am using t25 plastic pipes (its what was around at the time) chopped up, but fellows have done hundreds of conversions using stainless pipe and no complaints yet as far as i have heard.
no.1: return from rad
no.2: output to heater BUT it connects to the little black pipe out at the 2 o'clock position in the photo. there is meant to be a short piece of rubber here
no.3: Tee'd into the bottom hose (no.1)
no.4: Tee'd into the top hose (no.16)
no.5 and no.6 are both the heater flow and return. flow from the crossdresser pipe on top of the engine and return to the back of the thermostat(no.2 but via black pipe.)
no7 and no8 not sure but probably for the two head breathers to connect to.
no.9: not sure probably a breather connection for the case (no. 10 the fat one)
no10: case oil breather
no.11: small oil breather all need teeing into the air inlet
no.13: yes FI injection pump will be fine. i am using the vw FI filter before the pump also and nothing else.
no14 and 15: yes fuel feed and return cant remember which way round but i will double check
no.16: yes output to the radiator.
all large pipes are 38mm OD and the heater pipes are 16mm OD(not15mm, you'll have a nightmare getting 15mm on 16mm was hard enough) (suabru always use even numbers)
if you are using the RJES rad the pipes going into the rad ARE 35mm. i used a 35mm to 38mm right angle to connect to the rad. 38mm every where else.
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