Hi all Im still trying to sort out my steering. Lots of wandering and steering like im im a Laurel & Hardy movie. Almost everything has been replaced including king pin and bushes. I did however re use the old pinch bolt as the new one in the kit had less shaft and more thead, meaning there would be thread against the pin.. (should i have used the new one? The old one had no wear looking as good as new) or do i just need to tighten the bolt more? I couldn't find torque setting. Ive done a little video to show up and down movement. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
The shoulder on the bolt should sit in the notch in the pin, but if its done up tightly enough it will stay locked to the pin. But if the arm is still twisting against the pin it isnt tight enough. Maybe go to the new bolt as what you think may be going tight is actually the shoulder bottoming in the clamp as it hits the other side, leaving the arm floppy. Worst thing could be the idler arm has been fretting for years and it now has a larger internal diameter than it should. In that case you may find wrapping a choice piece of feeler gauge round the pin inside the clamp part may stop it wobbling for now.
Can't remember if you adjusted the play on the steering box or not ...if you have not, worth adjusting . My steering was all over the place until i adjusted the play in the box . Undo the locking nut on the side and there is a threaded adjuster screw .
Thats slack as, err, a very slack thing! So are you saying its the arm is loose on the pin, or is the pin slopping about in the beam? Did you wedge the gap in the arm apart to get it off the pin? And did you leave the top bush sticking out the top of the beam a bit? Looking again, it just looks like the arm is loose on the pin.. tighten the bolt a bit more and see if it improves.
Thanks for all you're comments guys. Managed to get a few more turns on the bolt, its improved it massively I'm to scared to tighten it anymore incase it shears off. But it doesn't seam to be moving up and down anymore. Ive still got this problem tho Whilst turning the wheel it moves ok then suddenly goes super slack for a second then back to normal. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Is it going tight as you turn the steering through the middle of it travel? The adjustment could be too tight on the steering box?
If you dont have it properly centred when you start adjusting it, you might be having issues with it tightening up one side . But that looks more like something is tightening up a lot, then suddenly popping. First look around for stupid things wedged where they shouldnt be , or catching on things. Might be a ball joint complaining because its not on the wheels, and it is not assembled with the marks lined up exactly right, so you are catching the side of the shaft of the ball in the elongated slot in the balljoint which lines up with the suspension motion. In that case, replace the ball joint before it breaks. Or your steering box is actually broken inside, and there is a bit chipped off one of the surfaces - is it totally sloppy from the wheels back to the steeering wheel once it passes the 'pop' ? I am imagining kerbing it hard while turning tightly .. Does it still do it if you slacken off the steering adjuster screw a bit ? It could be over tight, or it could be jumping off the edge of a "cliff" into a groove of wear which it was wobbling in before you adjusted it slightly tight I am thinking about the bushing in the side of the steering box, mine had a series of mini-cliffs in it where the shaft wore a groove in the bushing, was adjusted tighter, dug another groove and so on .. For that its either a properly reconditioned box, or finding an engineering shop and ask them to mill out the bushing and replace with a new one. I did mine with a Dremel and a lot of good luck. I used a steel backed bronze bushing with PTFE. Whatever, if it comes from inside the steering box, that is where you need to look.
No mate it feels normal then goes really slack then back to normal. Tomorrow I'll disconect the drag link and see if its the same. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Yeah i was thinking the same Has anyone used these before? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153742261832 Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
"Boxes are stripped and cleaned as near new as possible" The internal components are regarded as not replaceable. Like buying an engine for £600, it could be a runner, it could be a disaster. But if your box has major damage, those replacements are quite likely to be only worn if the vendor has the decency to check that the parts arent totally wrecked. Buy it, try it quickly and send it back for a refund if its junk. It is being sold as working.
Drag link is off But its just the same, as you can see in picture there's no adjustment screw sticking out so i assume it's got no adjustment left am i right? Also anything else ican try or is it knackered. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
You know it's knackered. Back to the pin - you MUST jack it up when you move the clamp bolt. You should be able to tighten with your fingers until the head hits, them spanner it, THEN remove the jack. If you don't, the bolt threads get damaged and you're tightening against that damage rather than clamping the arm. If you had to spanner the bolt in either the threads are damaged or you didn't jack it up? Your new bolt would be ok because nothing is meant to ride on the bolt, the arm should be clamped to the pin and be immoveable.
I knew it was, i was clutching at straws Yes i jacked the bus from underneath the pin I just wasn't sure how tight to do it. But it seems ok. Cheers Z Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Ok I've ordered one Guy said he has a core in stock so he will get started on it straight away. It comes with a 12 months warranty and i get £50 back when i send my old box to him. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
