Steering box removal

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Betty the Bay, Mar 25, 2020.

  1. How do you change a coupler (cross over) ... I might have a spare hour or two in the next week or so? Any links or advice
     
  2. Pretty sure they're back in the same place...going to give horn a try before box goes back!
     
  3. 1974
    This is the thing:
    Don't think it is broken broken, but been pretty butchered by POs operates like an internal circlip ( one in pic upside down)[​IMG]

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  4. How come, it leaked like a good un, I mean loads of oil all over drag link....box off, cleaned, filled with oil to see where leaking......left it a couple of hours....not a drop of oil ?
    Explain!!!
     
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  5. How it should be for the earlier type columns...

    The plastic insulator/locating piece has a double flange at the bottom forming a slot around it's circumference. It has a section missing so you can squeeze it together then release inside the cover trapping them together. Then the column fits inside the plastic part as far as a step in the bottom of the insulator. When the column is in place you can't squeeze the insulator so all 3 become locked together. The only way to get the bottom plate thing off is to slide the outer column up out of the insulator which allows you to squeeze the insulator and free the plate. The step inside the insulator prevents you sliding it up the column still attached to the cover.

    If it's not like that Mr 8, it's broken. :) I expect someone got fed up with that procedure and filed or mangled the column past/through the insulator step. Id did that to my first bus, just lost my rag with it, thought sod the consequences and prised it up, but I now know that was naughty. I'm good now. :)
     
  6. Steering.
     
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  7. Cross posted with you, I should have looked for a picture that would have been quicker! So, yes as per my post above while you can mangle it apart that's not how VW intended. The step supports the column so if it gets too mangled and the column slips through it's not ideal.
     
  8. Gears are worn, slop in system, irregular pressure on seal creating gap for oil to leak?

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  9. Go underneath,
    Go underneath , undo 4 nuts , slide in new coupler, refasten nuts ( in theory ).
     
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  10. Top tip - Jack it up so you can spin the steering to access each bolt without getting out from under and guessing how far to turn it...and mind the horn wire...and your fingers.
     
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  11. The horn wire attached to a bolt for the steering box flange, these were swopped straight over from old coupler didn't notice if there were washers under the bolt heads.
    The steering column flange had washers under nuts...these have been put back on and tightened.
    No horn at moment, presuming that because box isn't in and all bolts on coupler tightened, there won't be a good contact.
    Go on then share the secret of how it should be !
     
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  12. This is how it is at the moment .... awaiting box refitting. [​IMG]

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  13. The fat washers should be directly above the coupler on the bolts you've already fitted. The wire is correct. All bolts must be fitted from the top so they can't fall out if the nuts go AWOL.

    Did you test for electrical continuity between any two of the sleeves in the coupler? The original was reinforced with non conductive stuff (glass fibre?) Some replacements use(d) steel. If steel, the horn will sound continuously whatever you do...
     
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  14. Thats what happens if you punch them out of secondhand conveyor belts..
     
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  15. The box may well leak because the bushings are worn and the output arm can rock. Or it leaks round the adjuster bolt.
     
  16. The bolts fitted were not removed from the steering column flange, just the new coupler fitted onto dangling bolts, if that makes sense.
    There were rusty washers under the nuts I've tightened, so I gave it some new ones.
    There are washers under the heads of the bolts that will connect to the steering box, but no washers to go with nuts.
    The horn worked fine before dismantling.
    Are the washers in the correct places?
     
  17. Do you have any fat, by which I mean extra thick washers? I'm guessing 2mm thk? Look at Skater8's photo just up there and you can see them between the column flange and the coupler.
     
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  18. from above. ignore the wire.

    [​IMG]
     
  19. In a 74, underneath, all the nuts you mess with should be replaced by nylocs these should only be used once (same for spring washers) the washers underneath help spread the load over the rubber and prevent tearing

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  20. Anything under the heads of the bolts hasn't been touched so as the horn worked fine before I started, assuming they have a bearing on its operation, then yes.
    I've either left things in situ or just transferred over without alteration.
    Just looking at the photo.......
    So the fat washers are under the heads of the bolts that attach the coupler and steering box flange together.
     

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