steering box adustment screw??

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Rixy, Apr 19, 2012.

  1. Hi there, i have quite alot of play in my steering box around the straight ahead, and was going to adjust the little screw in the side of the box to remove a bit of the play, howver i cant unseize the locknut around the screw.

    Is it possible to just unscrew the whole lot, and take the screw out too, put it in a vice to unseize it?? or can the screw not be removed completely??

  2. I'd imagine so, but the oil will run out! Maybe that's ok, fill it with fresh stuff. Watch the locknut, as it has a built in sealing washer.

    May be easier to take the box off (not that difficult).

    When it's sorted, jack the front up, ideally pop off the drag link ball joint, make sure the box is centred, then turn the steering wheel 180* left or right. Waggle the drop arm screw the adjuster in until it just stops clicking, then tighten the nut.
  3. only reason im askin is coz the screw seemed to unscrew a fair bit but wouldnt come out, as if there was a foot or summit on the end of it, thought maybe it was fitted from the inside when the box is built? If not, its just some dry threads or summit, will just wind it out and free it off :)

    Cant be arsed to take the box off again lol, only put it on 3 months ago ha ha, shouldve free'd it off then eh - oh the benefit of hindsight :)

    Mines already has a fresh lump of oil in it, so dont mind if it all flls out again, i'll just renew it again :)
  4. The adjusting screw has a floating "head" on the inside and can only be removed by screwing in once the end cover plate has been removed.
  7. A drop of Plusgas on the threaded section of the screw where it runs into the locknut would help with removal of the locknut. One small thing...the floating head is retained in the end of the main worm shaft which will not be removeable if the drop arm is left in place. So unless you really are set on a strip down of the box a large screwdriver, a ring spanner, and a can of Plusgas is the only option.
  8. i see, might wait till the ramp is free at work then, and get him up in the air and have ago with some heat and some plus gas then :)
  9. Just checked on some photos aware the locknut has a rubber seal moulded on the face which bears against the end plate. So not too warm or obviously it will cook likewise the O ring cover seal. Provided you can get someone to hold the large screwdriver in place I think that a gentle tap on the end of the ring spanner should be sufficient to crack the nut free.
  10. i'll see what i can do, thanks for the info k2u :)
  11. As fritt says, don't heat the nut - you'll knacker the seal.
  12. [​IMG]

    Top right is the face of the locknut...the circlip and washer retain the head of the screw in the end of the shaft.
  13. rite e o :) thanks fr the pics, makes sense now......
  14. Rixy dude

    If you keep soaking the lock nut in plusgas over a few days it helps

    Then get a screwdriver that fits perfectly snug in the slot and a ring spanner on the lock nut

    What you need to do is rock the nut back and forth a tiny little bit even if its a fraction of a mm whilst applying a blast of plus gas once in a while

    It may take ages but what your trying to do is get the plusgas and the corrosion to build up a grinding paste

    Once you start loosening it off dont rush just keep up the slow and steady rocking movements and once it moves freely if it tightens again then start back at the beggining with doses of plusgas and small rocking movements
  15. okey kokey, :) will start soaking it in plus gas / wd this weekend??
  16. If the adjuster will unscrew a little have you then tried to turn the locknut clockwise as it might be easier to break the rust by going down the clean threads? If you can then wind the locknut as far as it goes then run a die over the rusty threads to clean them up.

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