Steady Eddie 72 Body Restoration

Discussion in 'Restorations' started by SteadyEddie, Oct 10, 2017.

  1. If you didn’t need to add an activator to the paint then it’s not 2k
     
  2. this could be your problem if the paint isn t 2 k , it will dry at a different rate to the laquer, am surprised the laquer didn t react to the paint . a;; ways keep paint and laquer 2k , 2k usually doen t need laquered it should have a deep shine , unless you used clear over base
     
    Coco, Merlin Cat and paradox like this.
  3. Your not alone you have sanding brothers
     
    JamesLey and SteadyEddie like this.
  4. Yeah there was no hardener just out of the Tin and onto the van. I haven’t laquered yet though. That’s next weekend’s job. My sanding of the paint today was just to knock the lumps off before a final coat of paint. I’ll still sand it back a bit more before laquer next weekend


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    Merlin Cat likes this.
  5.  
    Coco and SteadyEddie like this.
  6. i would rub it right back if its cob . even light coats. let it flash off in between coats. 3 4 minutes between coats
    cob is not like 2k .
     
    Coco likes this.
  7. Looks fantastic Eddie
    Youve had the same idea as me im going to spray inside my sons old marquee.
    But i probably won't get to it till next year now as the temperature is starting to slide.
    But keep coming with the pictures

    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
     
  8. Merlin Cat

    Merlin Cat Moderator


    Looking great. :). I like the colour too. You must be super proud of your work.
     
  9. This is the paint tin definitely not 2K
    [​IMG]

    I’ve managed to solve my dilemma for supporting the doors while spraying. An old computer stand and stool. I’d prefer something which held them upright but this’ll do for a second coat of primer.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Now to get back to sanding again...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    nicktuft, shielsy, Coco and 1 other person like this.
  10. Just be careful resting them on their fronts. I did this last week on my tressle and managed to dent the front of one which I had to reshape!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  11. Ooo ok I’ll keep that in mind. I’ve done a lot of work with them lying on their front on the floor without a problem but I can see that the table will focus the pressure in small points.

    Hmm. More deliberation needed then


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    arryhancock and JamesLey like this.
  12. def cob, CLEAR OVER BASE
     
  13. They say you learn more from getting things wrong than getting right, well in that case I should be an absolute genius. Sadly though, things aren’t going great.

    So after rubbing all the paint down to a nice smith finish over the weekend now the paint has cured and using a splash of soapy water to stop clogging, I cracked out the lacquer for the top coat.
    [​IMG]

    I learnt from the paint that if I put it on too thin it doesn’t get a good shine as it’s not a perfectly smooth surface. So when I did the second coat of paint I put it on thicker and risked some runs but it left a good smooth finish.

    So applying that logic to the top coat, I tried to apply it relatively thick but in the hope of not getting any runs.

    Anyway, that logic failed and the first panel I did was covered in runs. From a distance it looks beautifully shiny but up close there are runs all over it!

    Bare paint before top coat
    [​IMG]

    With top coat and loads of runs!!!
    [​IMG]

    I put less on the other side which gave a good shine but still ran in places
    [​IMG]

    So I set about sanding down the runs fairly quickly in the hope that they’d be easier to sand when not fully cured. Again another big mistake! The thicker drops had bound to the paint below so as I sanded them away, they pulled at the paint leaving a distorted colour and letting the primer come through.

    Easy fix thinks I, touch up the paint, flatten back then respray over again.

    Well guess what, it didn’t work. I’m guessing there was some sort of reaction between the paint and lacquer when they weren’t set so my touched up areas have deformed and made a mess.

    [​IMG]

    To top it off, my second coat of lacquer which I tried putting on thinner after the runs is now too thin so it’s lost it’s shine. [​IMG]

    Im guessing my only solution, save starting again will be to sand through the lacquer and into the paint, touch up if need be, flatten the touch ups into the surrounding paint. I guess rubbing some thinners into the paint may help blend them in together but that just threatens to make an even bigger problem. Then I’ve got to re-spray the whole van again, all without distorting the colour or changing thickness of the layers... this doesn’t sound very feasible.

    Does anyone have any bright ideas as I’m running out!

    In all this I haven’t even bothered touching on the number of flies and bugs which now make up some permanent ‘decorative’ features in the paintwork. Maybe spraying a yellow van in a tent in summer wasn’t such a bright idea after all!

    *sigh*




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  14. i would da it all back to the yellow 240 320 lash a full coat of yellow right round , take your time . then laquer the whole lot , by the way i love the yellow
     
    JamesLey likes this.
  15. I’ve been following your progress for a while, Don’t lose faith now!! What you have achieved so far is amazing for someone who hasn’t done this before. I’m sweating about repairing a few rusty areas !!
     
    paradox and SteadyEddie like this.
  16. I’d flat the panels back and paint over with a solid 2k instead of base and clear

    That way mistakes made during painting can be easily rectified once the paint has cured

    Runs can have the tops cut of them then flatted back
    Dry patches and jaffa peel can be taken back with fine papers then polished etc

    I’ve never been a fan of base and clear
     
  17. Ps

    I feel your pain but stick with it you will get there in the end and feel great for it
     
    nicktuft and SteadyEddie like this.
  18. Thanks everyone. It’s getting tight, the wedding is only three weeks away!!!

    (At this point in life most people worry about wedding plans, I’m worrying about paint, windows and MOTs!

    I’ve managed to sand back the dodgy bits, started with 1,500 grit but it was going way too slow, ended up using 400 which took it back eventually.

    [​IMG]

    It’s perfectly flat to the touch. Tonight I’ve given these patches a very light spray of paint, then I’ll take it back (again) and lacquer (again). Hopefully it’ll blend in if It’s put on thin enough and sands back ok. Failing that i guess I’m taking the whole thing back again ha ha!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    nicktuft and shielsy like this.
  19. Best of luck with it mate
    In future if you make mistakes during paint leave them until it’s fully cured
    You will only make them worse otherwise.

    With the wedding do close don’t worry about perfect paintwork you can always come back to that.

    Have you checked over the mechanicals at all?
     
    SteadyEddie likes this.
  20. I’ve definitely learnt that lesson. My plan is to get a final lacquer on, then focus on getting windows and the rest in. Polishing and sanding can wait.

    In the last year I haven’t done anything mechanical so there’s a fair chance there will be something to do. My grand plan is to get it roadworthy, use it for a year or two then go onto phase 2 and rebuild all the mechanics.

    Basically I’m clutching at straws. I’ll be amazed if it makes it but realistically speaking, probably not. Though I’m not giving up yet. I’ll still be building it on the morning getting my suit all dirty!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     

Share This Page