Sparkies ahoy!

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Dub and Dubber, Apr 8, 2019.

  1. Trying to get an extractor with a run-on timer to behave ....
    I can get it to work with a standard toggle switch borrowed from a bedside lamp, but as this is for a bathroom I have to use either a pull cord switch or a proximity switch.
    In the photo is my test set up, with the proximity switch connections (tested separately) to the right.
    If I replace that with the toggle switch it works, (although I have to "prime" it after switching mains power back on at the fused switch plate, by going on/off/on with the toggle first time round ... a bit like setting an outside light to work off the sensor/timer)
    Can anyone see, or get, where this is falling short?
    Does a proximity switch have "special needs"?!
    Thanking you kindly in advance :hattip:
    IMG_20190408_202521286.jpg
     
  2. Your brave putting this up here, Ive the same problem, but i have been waiting over 10 years for my brother in law to come over from Australia to sort it out for me.
     
  3. Have you tried wearing track suit bottoms while testing it?
     
    Moons, Geordie, Merlin Cat and 4 others like this.
  4. Yes :D .... That particular diagnostic test made no difference sadly.
     
  5. I assume the wire from the top is the AC feed?
     
    Dub and Dubber likes this.
  6. Why...
     
    snotty likes this.
  7. Explain the question!
    ... extractor with timer + regs required type of switch no workie .... Same unit + dodgy shocker switch workie fine.
     
  8. Yes indeed
     
  9. Surely it should do all this stuff itself? You just provide a mains supply and a switched live.
     
  10. ExACTly, but the bugger won't play ball if I use the proximity switch, which makes me think there be summat about them they proximity switches oi doz not know :thinking:
     
  11. Can you not just buy an Expelair with an infra-red jobbie ;)?
     
    Dub and Dubber likes this.
  12. Not sure what your trying to achieve here - the basic requirements for a run-on (timer) fan is for a permanent live to the timer terminal, a switched live from the bathroom/toilet light switch circuit, and a neutral connection.

    They can all be switched via a triple pole switch mounted outside the room at high level, then connected to the fan.

    Fair play for having a go, but for a bathroom installation you really need to get it fitted properly.....
     
    F_Pantos and snotty like this.
  13. £££! .... and these two units are very quiet, look the dog's (backlit) and now I've started I ... will ... finish :confused: ..... and I tried a separate PIR first off but no joy there either, which I put down to the fact that having TWO things with timers in them was beyond my abilities
     
  14. Is your proxity switch made by the Wun Hung Lo Corporation?
     
    Dub and Dubber likes this.
  15. No but it might be sh1te being made by hoo flung dung ..... It works fine with lighting
     
  16. Righting?
     
    Lasty, jivedubbin and Dub and Dubber like this.
  17. The photo is just a demo/test rig set up after doing all of the above.
    The extractor doesn't have to be secondary to a light, in fact we didn't want it to be.
    I could put a light bulb in the set up but it wouldn't
    make any difference.
    The issue seems to be with the type of switch.
    PS ... The wiring for the unit puts the permanent live to the fan and the switched live (with or without light) to the timer
     
    snotty likes this.
  18. Just Open the bathroom window if you have one
    And throw the silly fan over snottys fence:D
     
  19. So I'm getting that no one knows something about proximity switches that I don't?
     
  20. Hmmm, I',m tired been starting at screen too long today then chasing bad earths on the bus until the light went.. so i reserve the right to be well wrong, but is your proximity switch, latching or momentary?

    Edit and if its the latter, does it stay on for a long enough duration to trigger the fan?
     

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