Sound Proofing and insulation

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by sachaigh, Jan 21, 2020.

  1. JamesLey

    JamesLey Sponsor

    Oh no, what did they miss?
     
  2. Which fire resistance stuff? I removed the hardboard sheets from mine-crazy idea.
     
    Gingerbus likes this.
  3. I used a load of flashband tape from Screwfix. It's £10 for 15 metres and because the roll is not so wide it's good to handle and get into all the nooks and crannies.

    https://www.screwfix.com/p/bostik-f...qjM4OlH9m-CCcZcyGOipOlBdmYm3HbdkaAuK6EALw_wcB

    Covered all the walls, floor and doors in the stuff then put thermal foam into the air cavities as it doesn't absorb water.

    Result: quiet, warm and haven't spent a fortune!

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    Lasty likes this.
  4. In terms of insulation, several of the T25 chaps report good results from trapping the grey pipe insulation 'sticks' in the panel voids.

    Its plastic so wont hold moisture, rigid so it remains in place, easily removed for doing welding repairs and cheap to buy in the first place!
     
    Day likes this.
  5. Gingerbus

    Gingerbus Supporter

    I think I used Silencoat Buffler in the engine bay access hatch panel over the engine as it’s designed for engine bays and more fire resistant, and normal silencoat 3mm on the rear engine bay door and strategically placed pieces on panels everywhere else. All helps.
    I figured the 5” mattress on the rear deck was sufficient sound wise once the engine bay had some deadening and reverb absorption.


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    Coco likes this.
  6. Dub and Dubber

    Dub and Dubber Supporter

    Haven't done any heat insulation yet, or all of the sound stuff BUT so far a good result with just offcuts of household acoustic matting (tight foam sandwiched between dense rubber/vinyl? ... ours was free but there's a fair bit going cheap on FB marketplace etc) which have gone ABOVE the engine bay shelf, and IN FRONT of the fire wall under the rear seat/bed.
    If it's a bed there's already a bit fat piece of foam over the engine for heat insulation.
    Using pipe lagging in the sides will probably do away with the need for stick-on mats (which only need to be strategic, not full coverage, to stop any "boom") if you use the right fatness and wedge them in. Builder's flash and (sticky backed replacement for lead flashing) is cheap-ish, and again, often available as surplus.
    If you fancy using any loose fibre stuff just wrap it well in cling film or similar so it can't drink.
    Final note ... You know how even having a door window very slightly open can give almost as much wind noise as having it fully open?
    Same applies with "proofing". Miss the edges and nooks and you'll waste all that effort
    :hattip:
     

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