I have an intake leak through my throttle spindle bushes and have been advised to replace them with new brass ones. Bought the replacement bushes. Thought I’d rebuild the carb with a rebuild kit at the same time. It looks in pretty good condition except for the spindles but I wouldn’t really know. Think it’s original so it’s done 128k miles in 45 years. I’ve got some walk throughs from Bentley, Haynes and (pleasingly) Feb 1992 Volks World! I was just wondering if anyone has done this and/or has any advice before I start. Bushes are most important because the leak is affecting performance. How hard can it be right.....? (Or not?) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It`s easier than you`re making it sound .... Strip , clean , blow out , rebuild . The main spindle can be a bit tight but persevere and you`ll get there
Hi Max Where did you get your spindles and kit from? I may need to do this work again on my 32-34 carbs . I would be interested to hear how you get on. I followed advice lbf and YouTube but just ended up cleaning and replacing float valve and gasket, didn't really understand the ins and outs Darron
As above. You may have to sand down the brass bushes, or spindle as it may be tight fit. And if so this will the hold the throttle open, so check the throttle arm comes down then up again before fitting. Carb rebuild kit nowadays are poo, so for the non rubber seals, I use cereal box card. Carb to manifold and top of carb to bottom, if that makes sense?
This. It’s easy - just follow your nose. Strip the carb body of everything, wash out with carb cleaner, blow through various orifices with an air line or air duster can. Reassemble...
I got bored this afternoon at about 1530 when my bus was running right. So I took a Brosol 34PICT3 to pieces cleaned and reassembled it before 1800. I had rebushed it in the past (bodge involving Araldite and bushes intended for a Solex, the Brosol carbs use a nylon bushing which is 0.5mm bigger than the Solex bushes) and then swapped it for a progressive... You do end up with a fair number of pieces. More pieces than a Weber progressive, which I had just stripped down to wobbly throttle spindle, measured up the hole, and rebuilt since lunch. Take pictures as you go and try to do the job fairly quickly over a couple of days so you dont forget where bits go.
https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-BEETLE-...-REPAIR-BUSHES-AIR-COOLED-OE941-/372351527862 The rebuild kits are available from all the regular online suppliers but are apparently poor quality and mine looks that way. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for the replies. Good to hear that it’s straight forward. All the terminology has had me feeling a bit bamboozled. I like this classic vintage carb tuning training film from vw Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
No better way of learning than to get stuck in. Carbs really are simple beasts in their basic operation.
I have perfectly perfect bushes for sale: http://thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/all-solex-carbs-throttle-bushes.76032/
Yes so I did this on Monday and as advised it's not particularly challenging doing the rebuild. The bushes were the hardest part by a long way and I had to polish the throttle shaft with wet and dry (as recommended above) till it shone like a mirror to get it to move freely in the new brass bushings which themselves needed to be chamfered slightly to be inserted into the carb body. In fact it all took a bit of working to get the bushes in without damaging them. At first I thought they'd never fit but I got there in the end and they're nice and tight but moving freely. I've reset the mixture and idle screws and it's running really well. Feel like I can definitely notice the difference (as there was a reasonable leak from the plastic bush on the arm side) but then I was pulling a trailer on the weekend so it may be a bit of that as well. Got the rebuild kit from VWH and it was, as people have pointed out, not great. I think they're all the same now though. In fact I didn't use the float, needle valve, accelerator pump diaphragm and spring or the main jet plug gasket because the parts to my original Solex were clearly of much better quality and, even after all these years, a better option than the flimsy replacements I felt. I did use the new main gasket, idle mixture / volume control screw and the choke vacuum diaphragm as mine were tired. Initially I used the throttle return spring from the kit but it didn't have the power to pull the lever arm back to the fast idle cam so I put back the original spring and it was all good. The Bentley diagram at page 23 of the Fuel System chapter is best but actually the numbered sequence on the poorly photocopied instructions which came with the kit were helpful in suggesting an order for disassembly and reassembly. Two fiddly bits were accelerator pump and choke (where order of reassembly mattered slightly). Other bushes are available.... Taking pictures on phone helped a lot. Thanks again.
