Rolling road; before and after investigation.

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by KarlB, Jul 11, 2014.

  1. Baysearcher

    Baysearcher [secret moderator]

    I once got a lift home in a Ford Puma which had nitrous fitted.
    J E S U S C H R I S T is all I'll say
     
    paulcalf and 77 Westy like this.
  2. Just a bit of buggy insight from a buggy owner, although light they usually run such large rear tyres you actually want loads of torque because the gearing is super high. On the other hand a buggy engine is a lot about show too so often you get big carbs and exhausts on engines that don't really need it.

    One thought on the suggestion of standard exhaust and heat exchangers - you may create a restriction that generates heat in the heads being as the engine has 35.5mm exhaust valves and off the top of my head a standard HE is about 28mm internally. Probably not a big issue in the UK cool climate but worth checking with better experts than me.
     
    KarlB likes this.
  3. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    Good point^. I don't know about the type 1 but my type 4 heat exchangers are 38mm OD and the CSP Python exhaust has 42mm OD primaries to 63mm.
     
    KarlB likes this.
  4. I think standard type one heat exchangers are 33mm OD
     
    KarlB likes this.
  5. It’s going to run stock heat exchangers. Like I said, I won’t be thrashing this engine anywhere and I need heat in my daily even if this is at the expense of any horses. I have the choice of either a header and stainless back box (which has done me well for years) or a standard exhaust (but I get fed up replacing them when they rot out).

    I have a propex in back for the rear and camping and stock heat up front for de-misting etc. I also have a petrol webasto heater in the garage awaiting my attention as my van only has space for 907s and the butane is rubbish in the winter.

    It gets a bit chilly up here!

    I’m going to contact Eurocarb and see if I can negotiate some sort of 48/40 swappage.

    I’m planning on removing the MSD distributor and using a stock vac advance. I’ve done this with my FRDs using an anti pulse valve successfully.
     
  6. Were you planning to whip off the heads? If so maybe also exchange them for some nicely ported standard valve size versions. Will help with the quest for torques and work better with heat exchangers.
     
    KarlB likes this.
  7. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    He’ll have to remove the heads to change the cam but the valves sizes are about right for a 2.0l with 40mm carbs, and a W-100 cam will give him the low down torque he’s looking for. I doubt if the heat exchangers will be an issue – it’s a low revving engine, or will be.
     
  8. It’ll be torn down to do the cam as @77westy said. I’ll also be checking out the cam gear as I suspect it’ll be straight cut.

    The heads have been ported and given a 3 angle job so I’m going to stick with them. I’ve read about folk creating single port strokers with stock rejected carbs. Sounds like fun!

    This engine won’t be thrashed...other than if you include going over to Apple Cross fully loaded :) then again I did that with my 1600 and lived to tell the tale :)

    It’s also got a Kennedy clutch...not sure how heavy that’s going to be. I’ll be ditching the lightened flywheel but that’ll mean the dynamic balance will be out unless I get the flywheel balanced to match. At the revs I’m planning I think it’ll be ok. I’ll see what’s what when I strip it down.

    I’ll check out the cam followers too. As it’s only been bench tested and then mothballed they shouldn’t need changing (they’re SCAT) but I’ll see what they’re like. It has dual valve springs and chromoloy push rods too.

    Just need some time to do it!
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2018
  9. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    I’d probably lose the Kennedy clutch, it’ll be heavy and harsh, although I suppose a standard type 1 clutch is a bit weedy – your choice with that, I don’t know type 1.

    And I’d sell the Engle k8 cam with matched run-in lifters – mark each lifter to the lobe it ran on. Use new lifters on a new cam and they really should come from the same manufacturer so Engle lifters on an Engle cam.

    The K8 was designed to be used with 1.4 rockers, is that what you have?

    You’ll only need single springs with a W-100 and 1.1 rockers, chromoly pushrods will be fine although not really needed – but you got to keep something! It’ll be a nice engine in the end but very different to the original.
     
    paradox likes this.
  10. I’ll see what presents itself when I open it up. It shouldn’t cost much more than time by the time I sell on the cam, carbs, Mallory ignition, Berg header , cam gear and the 48’s.

    I’ll swap out the ratio rockers and keep them for my beetle :)
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2018
    77 Westy likes this.
  11. I have a standard clutch in a full weight crossover Westy which also pulls a trailer with all my girlfriends shoes (check sig pic). I have a 1956cc type 1 with 40DCNF's Engle 110 o44 heads and don't experience any clutch slip.
     
    77 Westy and KarlB like this.
  12. Why don't you just sell the entire engine (as it is) to a beetle owner who wants to go fast on the strip (post on volkszone)?
    Then build the exact spec of engine you require for your bus from scratch, save yourself loads of mucking about

    A wise man suggested this (not me)

    Your basically thinking about changing so much on the existing engine, that it will no longer be the same engine (triggers Broom).

    I think you've ended up going down the route you are now considering as someone said you need different cam, someone says different exhaust, someone else different valves, different carbs etc and before you know it you have nothing left of your original engine!

    Common sense has been bypassed, as we've all been too busy having a *******ing contest about who know more about engines!
     
    KarlB likes this.
  13. That might be the logical thing for me to do....

    But since when has driving around in 44 year old builders vans been anything about logic? :)

    I’ve been building air cooled VWs since I was 15 (which wasn’t yesterday). ‘Back in the day’ we used to have to try and fix our beetles over a weekend and get them back in one piece before Monday morning.

    I still have the same passion for them as I did back then but there’s no pressure anymore. I (we?) do it for pleasure because it’s fun.

    The prospect of a few evenings stripping and rebuilding an engine is something I’m looking forward to....especially as recently in my garage it’s been more about welding and bodywork which can become more than a little frustrating (in the middle bit between ripping stuff out and getting it to fit).

    The engine is getting a new cam (£100 ish) and I’ll sell the 48’s which will cover the 40’s costs. I already have a clutch/dissy/ exhaust and stock rockers etc. I’ll need a gasket set and probably some other stuff I probably have kicking about the garage loft :)

    Appreciate everyone input on this. It’s fun eh?!
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2018
    paulcalf likes this.
  14. Oh...and the engine was tucked away for my beetle (which I’ll be going fast in) but that’ll be a while before it’s finished. I’ll build another engine for that :)
     
  15. Excellent. I’m not planning on any drag race style starts :)

    I have a wife and 2 girls (one of which is approaching 13). Don’t talk to me about shoes!!!!! ;-)
     
  16. Oh. While I’m here....

    I have full flow on my ‘other, other’ engine for my beetle. This is a gene berg take off etc. My ’soon to be’ bus engine has the same and the case is a ‘universal’ one with the threads for the engine support bar. The bar is going to need modifying to clear and I’ll need a 90 degree fitting coming out of the pump to clear it. Anyone else chopped and modded their bar?
     
  17. Made a start stripping off ancillaries this afternoon. Then got distracted giving the garage a massive clear out and rearranging spares etc. Amazing what you amass!

    Anyhow...between sorting through boxes of carbs, distributors, fuel pumps and tinware (to name but a few boxes) I pulled the distributor, exhaust and carbs.

    The mech fuel pump has been replaced with a cover. I removed it and had a gander inside the case. Happily the cam gears aren’t straight cut. One less thing to change!

    So far to sell;
    Brand-spanking-never-been-run 48 DRLAs and CB linkage.
    Unused Mallory dissy and cap
    Rusty Gene Berg fully merged header.
    8 dowelled lightened flywheel
    Kennedy Clutch

    Plus a shed load of accumulated other stuff I’d forgotten I even had!!!

    I found a few exhausts too....

    1200 stock
    13/1600 stock
    Autocavan stainless tuck away
    A monza 4 tip I removed from a friends van as a mercy mission.
    1 rusty 1600 stock exhaust...why did I keep that?!

    All these exhausts got me thinking about exhausts for the van. I’ve got the SS quiet pack but not sure yet ...

    Also (after a quick google) I can’t seem to see anyone selling stock weight 8 dowelled flywheels. I seem to have another lightened one with 4 dowels and at least another 3 stock 200mm flywheels knocking about! Probably find someone to 8 dowel one of my own flywheels or if I’m really lucky swap someone with my lightened one. Bit heavy to post though!!!

    Then again this engine won’t be running past 4500 rpm so 8 dowelling isn’t probably nescessary.

    The head tinware still has ‘Taiwanese’ stickers on them and it’s running ‘cool-tins’ (Who?!)

    OG tinware refurb and refit on the cards :)

    Lovely :)
     
    paulcalf likes this.

Share This Page