Restoration or should that be reconstruction challenge

It’s only my opinion ... I stick with what I said . I’m not doubting the guys skills, far from it

 

Mine cost £5000k, 3 years ago with an MOT and passed a second MOT with £100 of welding under the seat - it had no sills, no rear rear corner roof and rot through and through - with time Chuggs will truck again and like this thread we'll know whats what.. T2's are likely family and there you go..

 

Smashing project ...

Can I pm you about my massey harris fuel pump...?

 

I’ve never owned a Massey Harris, always fancied one though, they are much quicker than the Field Marshals I seem to collect.

 

With your excellent skills on metal working and welding ...all be it to late from looking at your pics ...why not go the whole hog and recess the window frames making it a non camper conversion .

I guy on here has done it and i was very impressed with his determination ...should be a dodel for you ...keep up the good work fella

 

I have been seriously considering this idea. I only welded one window frame at the moment and the conversion to a bus window looks feasible. I just need to get the correct glass from somewhere so I have a reference.

 

What about cuts if available ?

 

For the RH side, with sliding door cuts are available as this is the same as a LHD import, however for the LH side finding a good cut is going to be hard. Probably easier to take some measurements for a bus and copy for my van.

 

Hi mate great work on your project. I looked at your bus on e-bay around the same time as buying mine, didn't they want 3 grand for it?

Great that your a tractor guy, my grandad had a Ferguson TE20 we fitted a straight exhaust to it with no silencer it also had a 6 foot finger bar hedge cutter that would shake the ground when in action. We used to start cutting the acre or so of hedge we had at 6 in the morning just to wake up all the posh Londoners that thought it would be fun to live in the countryside.

one question I must ask. do you keep a tin of golden syrup or tin of black treacle in your tool box? I am told that all the best tractor guys do.

 

Now I’m intrigued as to what the syrup is for?

 

I paid a little over £850 for it, I also go a rock n roll bed, dash, and bags of other parts.

A tin of S.A.E. 140 is about as close to treacle as I get. Great for reduction hubs and Marshal gearboxes.

 

all the bits of machinery connected to the back of the tractor are belt driven. the belts are a bit lick denim and often cant get full grip on the drive pulley. we always used to put a bit of syrup on the belts to give them some extra grip. you would hear the engine tone of the tractor change as full power was now being transferred through the belts to whatever machinery the tractor was powering.

I used it on my wife's Hyundai to stop a squeaky fan belt worked for over 6 years. You could use the proper belt dressing sprays they sell but a bit of syrup works so much better.

 

I've been warned that should a tractor (preferably a Little Grey Fergie) appear at Casa Del Terrordales, then I'm for the high jump.



Sent from my ALCATEL ONE TOUCH 9002A using Tapatalk

 

I'll have to try this, I've always used belt dressing spray.

 

Thanks for that every day is a school day

 

A few small updates.


Stripped the rear bakes and suspension, the backplates are beyond repair, the adjusters are stuck solid, as is the slave cylinder. Oh and there's loads of play in the wheel bearings. So all good



Don't you love a situation like this, chances of undoing are about nil, out with the grinder.



Jump forward a bit and I've removed the gearbox and fuel tank, then started to shot blast and epoxy primer. So far shot blasting has revealed that everything is solid with the chassis and rear floor.



I've top coated the inside of the rear panel and the corner of the van ready for final fitment.



Then for something completely different, my hydrographic film arrived so couldn't resist trying a hubcap.



Interesting effect, not sure if it will stay or not but there are plenty of patterns to choose from and it seems easy to apply.

 

It's been a while, and there has been a few other projects to get out of the way before the van, anyhow here's where we are.


Right hand suspension has been stripped, cleaned and painted. Old bearings removed and new ready to install.


The CV joints that were on the van were GKN and in good condition, so a quick clean and re-fit, just added new boots.



Van had to be shunted out for a delivery, was nice to see it out in the sun, starting to look more complete, though a lot of squinting is needed for that.



Repaired the left hand engine bay panel.



Placed into the engine bay for a fitment check and all looks good, the rest of the engine bay and underneath at the rear has been shot blasted and primered. Please ignore the engine lid, got this at low cost, and needs shot-blasting and removing all the filler.




A small deviation from the plan to see if the paint I had in mind was going to work, tested it on the fuel tank cover panel as it was already blasted and primed. It's RAL5005 blue with holographic metal flake over the top and about 9 layers of clear to bury the flake.



I love the effect and can't wait to be applying this over the van. It is very hard to get a photo of the effect, but in the sun it really sparkles in a sort of rainbow effect. When not in the sun it's blue with silver speckles.

I'm now on to welding the lefthand battery tray, and wheelarch.

 

glitter ....

 

Loving the glitter, if only it was possible to take a photo that shows how it actually looks.

 

Nice weather = more progress on the left hand wheel arch.



First off this was apparently an acceptable repair by a previous owner or garage. It's just hammered in and welded on the outside edge. I assume they didn't want to lift the wooden camper floor for a proper repair and this was the answer.



I cut out the rot and made more new floor plus the end of the support section.



Next was to cut out the rot in the wheel well, thats quite a bit as can be seen.




This was the repair section I made to fit, it's about the most complex part I've had to fab so far, but save over £200 on a wheel well plus the agro of cutting out and fitting a new one.



Trial fit before welding.



Rear of wheel well edge made



Floor welded, C pillar repaired, wheel well welded.



Shot blasted and epoxy primered



Looking nice underneath at the rear now, I just need to apply stone chip and top coat.