Restoration or should that be reconstruction challenge

Discussion in 'Restorations' started by Murtle, Mar 23, 2018.

  1. Lazy Andy

    Lazy Andy Supporter

    I can see he pics now.... you brave, brave man!!

    I hope you didn’t spend more than 3 figures on that! :)

    If you get more problems with the hosting sites, try Tapatalk app and upload directly to the forum.

    I’m looking forward to this one winning a top 20 award at next years VoWo show ;)
     
  2. That rear number plate will polish up nicely.
     
    scrooge95, Murtle and Coco like this.
  3. Flakey

    Flakey Supporter

    Blimey! Have we finally got you round to our way of thinking?
    I was waiting for your post telling him it wasn't financially viable and he should consider a T25 or an autosleeper :D:thumbsup:
     
    Suss, davidoft, womball and 1 other person like this.
  4. No, he is an experienced DIY restorer and has several restorations under his belt. This one is going to be good and will become a great thread.
     
    Uncle Nick, Murtle and Flakey like this.
  5. I disagree my bus has cost 7 grand and It's worth twice that but if you count Labour then maybe ;)but my time is free but then you need to do every thing yourself
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2018
    art b, Coco and davidoft like this.
  6. I think I’m going to be in about the same budget, which includes buying the bus to start with.
     
    womball likes this.
  7. My 7 grand was buying the bus from scrap yard and then panels paint 2nd engine plus all interior poptop everything to finish so it easily done just takes time :)
     
  8. Flakey

    Flakey Supporter

    But you pretty much remade yours from sheet steel :thinking:
     
    Coco likes this.
  9. Yes but can be done :thumbsup:you should see my beetle project just picked up to day :confused::p
     
    art b likes this.
  10. Flakey

    Flakey Supporter

    We can't wait :thumbsup:
     
  11. Maybe this is true but you still end up with a heavily welded ,heavily patched , filtered converted panel van ... the op will do as he wishes and good luck ...I always thought it best to start with the best base vehicle as all datums are there not the worst ... rust free doors were 4-500 last time I looked
     
    crossy2112 likes this.
  12. crossy2112

    crossy2112 Supporter

    Not being a welder, if I had to do it again I would find the best bus I could but it sounds like the lad wants a big project.
    Looks like he has his wish :)
     
  13. matty

    matty Supporter

    People spend lots of money to watch thick millionaires kicking a ball around or spend loads on sticks to hit a little ball around the county side.

    One mans hobby is another mans mental illness.

    Good luck and enjoy it.
     
    art b, CollyP, Murtle and 6 others like this.
  14. Loving all the comments and different view's, I just like a good project, always have...

    I started with the LH sliding door, the top was gone, frame and skin, now you can't buy these, or at least I could not find them however they are a simple shape to fab out of sheet, especially when you have a 3' folder and guillotine.

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    There was just about enough top left for me to get a measurement of the profile, I then made a test piece as shown above. Once happy with this I made a complete top horizontal frame, the original uprights were ok so I just blended this in at the ends.

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    I then made a new skin for the top, this is easy just cut out of flat and fold the edges. Here is the first attempt before re-working the window corners as I was not happy with them.

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    Possibly a bit difficult to work out, but I have added a U channel that runs from the outside skin to the inner frame, this helps the window seal and also stiffens the whole door up.

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    Then it was on to the bottom, using the floppy unattached skin as a sort of height reference I cut the rust out.

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    The internal slider bracket was blasted then filled with weld where it was thin or holed.

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    The new frame base was fitted along with repairing both sides of the frame.

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    Then shot blasted, cleaned and etch primed, before a top coat to help slow future rust.

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    Skin attached, the folded edges were then dressed over with a hammer and dolly.
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2018
    Poptop2, exuptoy, paradox and 6 others like this.
  15. [​IMG]
    Then on to the crusty window.

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    I've now learn that with VW T2's rust just below the gutter usually means the frame above is also rusted.

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    And when you cut that out you find there is another piece of metal above this, and guess what,,, that's also rusted. What a mess.

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    Having cut all the rust out it was time to fold some repair sections and start attaching, sadly couldn't get the tig in here and see what I was doing so had to resort to mig and blind luck.

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    Blasted, primed, painted.

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    Final part folded and welded into position. Now I can start the job I thought I was going to do at the beginning,,,, making a window frame.

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    I've more or less matched the original profile of the frame along the bottom, tops in and suddenly the side of the van feels more solid.

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    Just about done, a quick etch prime, but will need dressing with the flap disk to make the welds flat to the panel. It should then look original.

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    Trial fit of the window was a success. Excuse the rubber gap, it was the original and has shrunk over the years, new on order.

    More to follow.
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2018
    shielsy, nicktuft, Rez and 12 others like this.
  16. Good luck and I'm looking forward to following your progress.
     
    Murtle likes this.
  17. Also dead impressed with the cylinder head repair (only a bodge if it doesn't work properly:))
     
  18. great start, looking forward to seeing this one progress
     
    Murtle likes this.
  19. Rear floor progress now, this was a mess and so rusty I've had to make what I think it should look like from photos on the net, trouble is most have a spare wheel holder here.

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    Remembering that it came to me like this.

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    I started by making the front section so that the floor was a bit more stable to work around.

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    I then cut back to where the metal was good, interestingly underneath is looks perfect, it was only where the wet carpet had sat for years that was rusted. While at this stage I've shot blasted the support and painted it.

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    It was then a case of make a patch to fit that matched up with the existing floor ribs, a bit of creativity was also needed to guess how some of it should look. Internet photos helped with this.

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    Then weld into position including plug welding onto the under floor support.

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    The floor edge or whatever it's called was then welded all along the back door shut until I got to the really rusty part on the right hand side, here the D pillar was going to need fixing first.

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    I cur out the rust then shot blasted everything, this helps finding the thin metal as it blows holes in it. Repair patch made to ensure the pressing details remain in the D pillar.

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    Rear section welded into position, and the inside of the pillar painted.


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    Front D pillar patch welded into position ready to be ground back and blended.

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    The finished result, obviously the D pillar still needs further repair but not where the floor runs.

    Now this is done I have a stable platform to sit on while tackling the rear roof gutter and support.
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2018
    shielsy, nicktuft, Poptop2 and 8 others like this.
  20. Now it's possible to sit on the floor without risk of falling through and landing on the engine the rear gutter and panel above the door can be rectified.

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    Having learnt from previous experience from the side window, rust holes this close to the gutter go a lot further than can be seen.

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    Time to start spot weld drilling and cutting in search of solid metal.

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    Then shot blast, this is also a good way of determining metal thickness as it's easy to blow holes through the thin parts.

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    It's possible to buy the outer most panel (most right in the picture), but I've not seen the supporting structure behind available, so all 3 sections behind I've folded, including some gutter repair.

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    Rear gutter replaced from corner to corner, and most of the corners as well.

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    The inner panel was then replaced where needed and treated to some rust prevention.

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    Section 2 drilled and painted ready for plug welding.

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    Welded into position and now the vans starting to feel a bit more solid are the rear.

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    And finally, at a stage where the purchased panel can be fitted. I'm only going to tack this in so I have a reference for the next stage of removing and fitting a new corner panel. There is then one final metal section that fixes over the top of the outer panel, but without this in position it makes welding a lot easier.
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2018
    shielsy, cunny44, mcswiggs and 8 others like this.

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