Rebuild

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by the 3 crispies, Aug 18, 2019.

  1. Bought engine to do rebuild going to clean case to check if its toast. Looking past gunk what do I need to look for on cam/crank for over heating.
    Also with this much sludge is oil cooler worth saving as with oil pump. Complete filter was solid so planning on cleaning then getting oil ways redone professionally.
    Where do pic 4 parts go as trying to itemise everything.

    Fitting new pistons/barrels and heads as this is 1300sp unit.[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

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  2. Always use new cooler and pump. Top tip is to look to see if the print off the crank shells has imprinted into the case if it has its a line bore for sure.
    Engine building is fun and a very good way to understand how they work.
     
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  3. You need to start measuring, measuring, measuring. Crank journals and the state of them, crank pins, how much you've got left of the web behind the flywheel to determine whether it needs machining or not. Looking on the back of the centre bearing shells will give you an idea of whether it's been attended to before.

    Part 4 is two of your tappets.
     
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  4. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    With that amount of gunge, when you have assessed whether it is good to go with line boring, you will probably need to pull the oil gallery plugs to get at the sludge everywhere in the oil galleries.

    It could be worth hiring or borrowing a proper parts washer once you have scraped and cleaned the engine case by hand, the detergent jet of a parts washer will flush things out.

    I got 28000 miles from a case that looked like the inside of yours but on the outside. M8 stud heads were buried in 10mm of grime..Inside was water oil and oil film bacterial mats..
     
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  5. Got parts washer after bh, didnt think of oil gallery plugs will have a look for them. 1st time in doing full strip and rebuild so learning. You know your up against in when you leave your engine rebuild book out in the rain

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  6. Norris

    Norris Supporter

    Comma hyper clean is excellent for cleaning the case. I'd gently scrape off what you can, preferably with a plastic scraper (always use something softer to scrape with than the thing you're scraping to avoid scratches and gouges), then brush the hyper clean with a nylon brush (old toothbrush, bottle brush, etc). A large animal litter tray is quite cheap and useful for containing the mess somewhat
     
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  7. Task for tomorrow bud, already got tesco value litter ready and lots of blue roll.
    Not brave enough to pop oil galleries yet but will clean rest and take pics.[​IMG][​IMG]

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  8. Norris

    Norris Supporter

    Yes, that looks pretty manky in there. You'll be surprised how quickly it cleans up. Good luck :)

    Edit to say, I got a few little wire brushes to fit my Dremel to clean up the outside of the case. It came up a treat. Just avoid any mating surfaces like where the cylinders meet the case and the heads, and of course the mating surfaces of the two case halves
     
  9. Before you start ripping oil gallery plugs out, I'd order a set of plugs and taps to replace them with ;)
     
  10. snotty getting case prepared and if goes to plan have someone who does engine building to do that and machine for full flow, etc. As trying to do as much manual work to save a few hours as he is normally flat out. Also when I rebuilt top end of other engine 7/8 yrs ago still have to be stripped and machined.

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