I'm about to have my roof retiled and not sure which tile to use ,the guy whose doing the job had left 4 samples to look at we have a moss problem on the roof so my question is which tile would be the best one to help stop the moss getting a grip , One with smooth grooves or flat. Left to right they are Marley ,Marley,redland and quinn
You need groovy tiles, because the Rolling Stones gather no moss. . . . . . . . . I'll go and pick up my coat, shall I?
Marley, Marley, Redland and Quinn - aren't they the solicitors who dealt with @Terrordales' transportation for life..?
I used to work in the marley tile factory Merton when I left school, The Marley smooth or loft tile as it is known in the trade has a built in anti moss surface, the groove tile which are cheaper doesn't I hope that helps contact Marley at www.bazzaistalkingbollocks.com
Describe your roof to us bud, is it an up and over? Is it hipped, gable ends etc etc. The pitch is a part of the issue for sure but it’s slightly irrelevant because that’s not really in the changeable parameters. Smooth surface is better obvs, but flat tiles seem to allow the water to spread thus promoting lichen, moss etc, whereas the extremes created by larger profiles allow the tiles to dry quicker plus the water way created by forcing the water into run off gullies seems to wash loads of crap off with it. If you use a profiled tile, the main place you’ll get the moss growth starting is in the corrugated joints between the tiles and where the tiles overlap because these places take a heck of a lot longer to dry out. Back in the day when we were talking about bedding hips and ridges on, several authorities mainly coastal ones would insist on copper strips bedded in the muck and protruding out exposing a couple of square inches of copper per tile flow/run / pan , so two per double Roman, two per grove bury, one per pan tile, one per single Roman etc etc. We used to use 22mm pipe scrap and cut it into one inch pieces with your pipe cutter, then cut through the ring and flatten them out, then you’d have copper about two and a half by an inch, then snip down the middle and bend it apart so it works like an style wall tie and bed that bit in the muck. Works by keeping copper sulphate coating all along the most prone places for growth. If you’re using dry ridge or hips, make them a tad longer and bend over and form a decent hook to clasp over the tile under the hips / ridge so that there’s still a decent amount of copper exposed. If you could make something very small to go in the corrugated joints or over it perhaps because that’s where it’ll start but it must have water running over it to create the sulphate. Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,, used to do that
It's about 22 degrees ,gable ends , chimney almost at the ridge ,5 House's in the block and we all having new roofs
Question for roofers? Well I suppose “Do you want a brew?” is one you need to know. Or, “Can you turn your radio down please, my wife is on night Shift?”
"Will you please stop commenting on my wife's breasts" is another question frequently asked of roofers.
what tiles are being removed. Will it not be determined by next doors as i dont think they are compatible
Put The Rolling Stones on a playback loop ... but seriously, I'd go for flat, and copper wire in the ridge mortar, unless they're talking about using a dry ridge system, in which case you can "weave" it, over one under one, along the top row of tiles .... Gives you a top-down version of @Ozziedog 's proper copper job .........
