Two little bolts under the wheel (11mm spanner) and pull them off. If they won't come off, loosen the star adjusters.
Zed, I know it will all be clear once I remove my wheels, but just to clarify. I am looking for 2 11mm bolts on the drum, which locate it to the back plate? Once off, is just a case of putting a new drum on and rotating it to see if it is clearing the shoes? I have just had new shoes put in, which have beed adjusted. Few questions though. How do you know when shoes need adjusting, as 70% (ish) of breaking power is done via the front disks, what clues do you have that the rears are wearing?? Also, do you just adjust them out, so they are close to the sides of the backing plate, and clear the drum once it is back on and rotaed to check? As I never had pulsing before and assuming it is the drums, could my shoes be adjusted to far out?? Exscuse any niave questions.............have to learn some where. Many thanks for all the replies, Simon
remove wheel back off adjusters remove 11mm bolt remove drum check handbrake arm in drum is back to stop (if it isnt slacken hbrake cable) fit new drum (ensuring it is central and correctly aligned with spigot on hub) refit 11mm bolt refit roadwheel (nip wheel down diagonally to make sure wheel is central) adjust out shoes one at a time till shoe drags badly then back off a tooth on adjuster till it rotates with a VERY slight drag press brake pedal to align shoes and settle recheck adjustment repeat on other side thats about it if rear shoes arnt adjusted up enough (or over time when they need to be adjusted) you will have lots of pedal travel and a poor handbrake and make sure you handbrake cables are adjusted correctly and never never never adjust a handrake on cables!!!!!
I might try this without buying new drums first, as there was not an issue before I had my shoes changed. Could just need drum refitting. Have a few other checks suggested by others to do as well. Although I am unsure how to clamp the brake lines at each wheel and what clamp to use. Wish this site hosted mod parties. In the USA on some forums I belong to for other cars, they host what they call mod parties, well you can get together and get these smaller type jobs done. Helps those with less experience have a go, but with others about to oversee it. I am sure once I have done this once, it would not be an issue again. Also, is access to the backing plate ok with the car on axle stands?
There is. It's called Techenders and happens twice a year. http://thelatebay.com/index.php?topic=3610.0
you want a clamp something like this one that holds the pipe with a threaded bolt http://www.uktools.com/brake-pipe-clamp-p-763.] you will get on from local motor factors for £10ish dont buy one of the springy type 1 they are no good for what you want it for
^^^whs there are exploded diagrams that can help. there are 2 types 1x for type1 and 1x for type4 engined vans make sure you get the right one for your van
Right, thought I'd have a quick look at my rear brakes today. Started with the nearside rear as the mechanic who did the work on my car said that was the drum he thought was off-round. Anyway, once jacked up with the wheel off the floor and the front wheels with blocks under them, I took the handbrake off. The wheel really struggles to be turned by hand !! Surely that is not right. I removed the wheel and rotated the drum to see if it was still the same, and although it rotated it was still very stiff. What did surprise me though, was that the drum was lose. It just came off with no resistance what so ever. Is is just the wheel that holds it on then?? Once off, to be honest with you, I did not really know what I was looking at. It is one of those things, that once done, I won't forget, but I am just a bit reluctant to mess about with my brakes. I put it all back together and never got time to do the other side, due to the weather. I took it for a drive and obviously there was no difference. I think when I have my new engine built, I'll have to get them to check this as well. I am convinced it is the back as I have warped disks before on my other car and you can feel the wobble. This feels different. Unless I put a different drum on, I'll never no if that is the issue. A rear drum is only £42. Can I just buy one and try that. They don't have to be swapped in pairs do they? Also, should it be secured to the backing plate?
There is normally a bolt holding the drum in place. Mine are missing though and I have no problems with it.
If you secure the drum to the backing plate it won't go round dude. They are a bit stiff to turn because you're turning parts in the gearbox as well. That feels different to the friction of tight brakes and should be obviously one of the other. Jack up, turn wheel, slowly apply handbrake and turn wheel, apply a bit more, turn wheel etc untill it starts to grab. If it's at 2 points really stiff and really loose between that's your baby. A note of caution though as they're always like this to an extent! Make sure it's really obvious. I second everyone up there^ encouraging you to clamp a pipe at a time to narrow it down. Pipe clamps are peanuts from any motor factors. If it is a rear IT IS the brakedrum - either fit or out of round.
Should have done mechanics at college rather than computing !! Are these brake clamps ok? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BERGEN-Fuel-Line-Water-Pipe-Brake-Pipe-Clamp-Set-NEW-/120703529416?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item1c1a7db1c8 Saw the link to Techenders, will defo need to get to this. Even if nothing needs doing by then, it will still be good to go over these jobs that I should be able to do.
I use these. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-Draper-Hydraulic-Brake-Hose-Clamp-Pipe-Clamping-/130583964634?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item1e67692bda Good for brake lines and petrol hoses. There's nothing else you'll ever need to clamp on your bus.
quick update. Got hold of some new drums, so fitted them today. Both sides seem hard to rotate, so backed off adjusters. Feels hard to turn no matter what, so this must be gearbox friction I assume ?? Anyway got to a point where I thought I was happy, as drums were rotating free (ish). Did not work out to good though. Handbrake now pulls out way to much from dash and when driving pedal feel is very soft. Does not pulse anymore though, but just feels way to soft. On first drive when applying the brakes there was a horrible binding noise. Not sure what it was, as you would have thought If I had adjusted them to far, there would not have been any binding. Might have one last go in the morning, of adjusting them back on a bit more. Not really sure how far, but I suppose If I can get the handbrake back to 6 notches, it must be about right. If this does not work, I suppose I'll have to get it to a garage. PS. Why would pedal feel much softer (spongier), when most of the braking power comes from the front?
dont worry about how many notches the lever comes out thats no indication of correctly adjusted brakes! you will tell as you adjust the rear shoe correctly the brake pedal will be higher and the h brake will get better at the same time. once every things bedded in and setup perfect you will have very little pedal travel and the handbrake will only come out a couple of notches
