Hi peeps Anyone got a propex heater connected to use the original w screen vent? Any pics? Tips? Easy to do? Thanks.
Sorry folks I should have explained better. I already have a propex heater on a 1973 westfalia. I also have broken heat exchanger cable n I got to thinking about using the propex for proper winter heat!
If you have all the pipework the heating is pretty good off the heat exchangers. I just wire them open underneath the bus in the cooler months.
Fixing a heat exchanger cable is cheaper and easier than fitting a Propex that works when you are driving...
I’d agree , I’ve got my propex to the point where I can drive it around town and it stays on - any faster than 30/40 and it goes out and has to be reset - I’m living with it like that for now
I have done that with my diesel heater I placed a t piece on the center heater pipe under the van so the heat blows to the front vent works when parked up over night I fitted a one way blow valve similar to the one fitted on the type 4 blower motor so the heat only flows forward. When I plumed the heater I was going to fit an outlet but I thought why not use the van, the only thing is it only uses a drop of diesel never had a propex heater, it only what Vw did in the THING .
I asked as later westies had a variety of inlet ducts which are very handy for venting propex. If you already have a propex then which model is it and where is it currently fitted? Do you want it outside the vehicle then thats feasible but it will need mounting in an enclosure or weatherproofin*, which is do-able on an older compact type propex but more diffiscult on later models. Not asking as im curious. Asking as i will likely tell you how to do it if i have the info. Also is a central belly pan fitted (not the pedal cover, the main one further back that encloses between the chassis rails. Big question is what propex and do you want it under the bus.
I’ve got a 1600 compact mounted inside between the wardrobe and the rear bench seat in the cupboard under the seat. westfalia continental. And yes there is a belly pan up front in the middle of the van.
I think you need a special fitting that gets the combustion air intake and exhaust at the same dynamic air pressure when you are driving so that neither 1. exhaust high pressure: The blower fan is overwhelmed by the air pressure difference so the burner goes out as too rich. 2. Inlet high pressure: The air blasting past the fan makes the burner lean out and go out.
Emailed propex. Very helpful. I don’t need a special fitting. The intake and exhaust should be the same length and both face rear wards. Seems simple enough.
That’s what I’ve done , I also did as @mikedjames suggested above - I put both pipes in a section of 50x50 steel trunking ( without the lid on) to form a sort of pressure equalising thingy but that didn’t work Pointing them in the same direction has helped but as I say only up to a certain speed - I guess if I persevered I’d get it right but life’s too short - I just wear a coat and gloves when driving in the winter
Mine just poke through the floor between the front seats and are cable tied to some convenient part of underside pointing backwards..... works fine at any speed...or so wife tells me, she seems to hog all the heat .... how does that work ?
Oddly thats not what was recommended to me and in my experience doesnt work. First bit is correct. Overall length needs to be max 4 m. Inlet and exhaust can be at the side of the van (mine is!!) inlet needs to be towards the front. Ie in front of the exhaust and less than around 9cms max gap between the two( not sure what minimum is. Mine very rarely blows out - even at 70 plus! Cant guarantee that on an older heater. If your bus already has it fitted inside the wardrobe then an option is to cut a hole for the hot air dict and plumb it into the main heater tube using a y piece. If you want to fit it externally then bracket between chassis rails, y piece ino heater tube for hot air and disconnect and blank off the outlet pipe to the walkthrough vents at the diverter valve and extend the flexible hose to the heater and this will now be your cabin air recirculation to the heater ( its pointless trying to heat ambient external air as this will just not get very warm and will rot out your heater. The compact heater itself will probably need the cover sealing using probably silicon and would benefit from a coat of paint. You will probably need to extend the control woring to the stat. Multicore trailer flex would be ideal.
Or fit the heater into an external box and duct through floor. I have one somewhere and will post a picture if i can find it!
