Ive built many engines of various sizes, but never a ACVW. I'm at the point of no return, about to apply case adhesive/sealant and join the two halves together. Crankshaft and camshaft both assembled to spec and tried separately in a torqued up case. Both tried together and torqued up in the case and turn freely. Oil pump clearance checked and 1mm machined off camshaft gear bolts Camshaft plug fitted Camshaft axial clearance 0.002" Oil pump suction pipe fitted with new o-ring. Questions: Do I or should I fit the distributor drive now? When the two halves are together should I torque ALL bolts and nuts up sequentially immediately? Is the adhesive/sealant only applied to the perimeter faces of the case OR additional faces inwards, eg relief valve drain hole that leads from one side of one half to the otherside, to the suction side of the oil pump? Any comments or feed back welcome, have I missed anything? Thanks for reading
Don't go mad with the sealant - just the thinnest of smears. Curil T is very good. Don't use silicone. Just the thinnest smear on internal surfaces, if you feel like it. Do the case up once the sealant's applied. Dissy drive is up to you. Just get the crank/valve timing in the right position before dropping it in. Not sure if type 4s (is it a type 4?) have (two) shims underneath the drive shaft. Avoid turning the engine over with no dissy in place, as the dissy drive can ride up and jam, potentially knocking chunks off the brass drive gear. Apart from that, just go for it...
I would, and the distributor but you could fit it later, just don't drop the washer. Yes. I apply sealant on all the split line faces but just a smear on the relief valve return to pump suction. Look like it's all there to me - that's not grease in the oil pump is it?
Just did this on mine...sorry battery ran out just before pictures of sealant! Case Closed Looks good to me As above i went light smear on mating faces all of them.. and both sides is all the washers.. Curin K2 for me this time. Ddisi washer is the one with three dimples in it Can do that later if you like just easier to make sure it's the right TDC when you can see cam Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
I have used assembly grease on the bearings, and filled the oil pump with grease to aid priming...........................................
thanks to all for the valuable comments. If I can "read" No1 cam lobes ill fit the distributor and the drive shaft (1 shim)
It’s not a good idea to use grease in the oil pump – it can bung up the small oil passages – better to use petroleum jelly which dissolves in oil.
If the case is still open.. align the dots lift con rod 1 to straight up.. that's no 1 firing tdc. Install the drive with disi and a rotor arm pointing to no 1 cylinder(ish) give it a jiggle and it'll slot in. Bolt in place. Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
It's in my build thread if you want.. I've put an index on the first post Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Fitting the distributor drive shaft type4 mmmmmmmmm, I have the case still open. I have lined up the dots on the crankshaft to line up by eye with the case half, the cam gear dot is inbetween the two dots. No1 conrod is not at TDC, in fact its looks about 90 degs past. Cam gear has never been off the shaft, when the dot is at 12, o clock opposite end cam lobe points down. i'm doing something wrong and I can see it. thanks for reading this
D9nt need to look at case half.. just get the one dot on cam between two dots on crank and lift crank rod on no 1 to turn crank up to vertical.. TDC on no 1... Dots will now be apart . I'll see if I've got better photos... Lobes will be down.. not quite straight down but both intake and outtake valves will be on the closed ( short) part of cam lobe Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
