Patina Loco - lowlight facelift a'go go :)

Discussion in 'Restorations' started by Luis Navarro, Jun 10, 2015.

?

which window for the win?

Poll closed Jun 20, 2015.
  1. Glass panel all the way....Jalousie's are for pansies!

    3 vote(s)
    23.1%
  2. Westie obviously!....scene tax adds horsepower and sex appeal!

    10 vote(s)
    76.9%
  1. It just seemed right!
     
    Poptop2 likes this.
  2. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Administrator

    As it is now will do, just chuck in any spare parts you may have knocking around:thumbsup:
     
  3. I'll give your generous offer the proper consideration..... :p
     
  4. :TTIWWP:
    Hope you get it sorted dude
     
  5. Not got much done today, as ive run out of cutting discs, waiting for a couple of ebay listings to finish so I have the cash to order up panels etc but I think ive got as much cut out as I feasibly can without having the new bits to look at and figure out what else needs to come out.
    im guessing from what I can see that there is no way of situating the inner sill without cutting out the jacking points? and since theres not a huge difference in cost between a jacking point and a jacking point/outrigger combo, is it worth cutting the lot out and replacing the outriggers at the same time? Two of them are a bit crispy in places anyway and one was so far gone I could see through it so I had to chop it out.
     
  6. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Only you can judge this really. It can be done but you need to be able to shuffle it forward and backward beyond it's position - more holes. :)
    It pokes 10mm-ish through the front bulkhead so you'll need to be chopping that up anyway.
     
  7. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    4
     
    Poptop2 likes this.
  8. Im thinking I dont wanna be under there again after this for quite a while, so if its gonna make the inner sill easier id just as soon cut out the outriggers, get the sill tacked in and then renew the outriggers and jacking points. At least itll all be new metal rather than trying to plug weld to stuff thats seen better days. Or does the necessary assembly order not allow for that? sorry for relying on your knowledge so heavily dude, but until my book arrives and I have the panels here its hard to get my head around
     
  9. Hahaha is this gonna be a daily thing?
     
  10. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    No worries, it's fun, you're the one getting a face full under there. :)
    No you are right, it's easier that way. Bare in mind that while you can chisel the outrigger from the thick chassis, picking them off the top hats without damaging the tophats is a bit tedious. Does yours have the 3rd outrigger behind the rear jacking point?
     
  11. What we did to minimise damage to the top hats was to cut the sills down either side, then used a grinding disk and flap wheel to take the metal back to the top hats.

    It took a lot of time to get it right, but meant we managed to keep some. We did end up replacing 2 of the top hat floor supports as they were too far gone, but only looked at this after we had the sills out. We could have saved time and disks if we had checked them properly first.
     
  12. You only need to remove one jacking point to give you enough wiggle room. On my sliding door side I left the rear jacking point in situ as it was ok but cut out the front one plus outrigger.
     
  13. Not too bad with a decent 40 grit flap disc.
     
    zed likes this.
  14. You'll need to put the final jacking point on after you've put the inner sill in as the bottom of the inner sill sits on top of the end of the jacking points. I found leaving the rear jacking point in place helped me to wedge the new sill tights against the bottom of the cargo floor at that end.
     
  15. Yeah, I looked like my face had been sandblasted yesterday.....looked like sunburn lol
    Nah, just the front and 'middle' ones
     
  16. This is how I did the front outrigger to the letter :)
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2015
  17. Good tip dude! that saves me lopping out the rear ones which are fine, and saves me about £70..... assuming that 'rear' means the one under the back of the sliding door and not the one zed mentioned?
    Or would it be better to renew them anyway for ease of welding and peace of mind to know its all new metal and good for a few years?
     
  18. I did mine in a week :p ...and I had a much bigger list...And could only make noise after 4pm (nightshift next door)

    I had to bring it over here and the clock was ticking...:D

    All the residents near me were horrified ,until they started to bring all their broken cars to me..:rolleyes:
     
  19. Your budget must be a bit more readily available than mine :p
    Time isnt really the problem for me.....more the fact I have to sell stuff to pay for panels and materials before I can buy them.
    I had four times my current income when I bought the bus.......typically now it needs work, im in a minimum wage, part time job lol
     
  20. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Administrator

    5
     
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