Pan: Mesmerising Mechanical Stuff

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by PanZer, May 24, 2019.

  1. I’ll start off by stating that I am no mechanic...so please expect quite a few numbskull questions to follow. I’ll add to this over time.

    At Techenders I got alerted to a missing piece of tinware. I have that piece now (behind crankshaft) but it seems I need to remove the pulley wheel to get it in place...
    [​IMG]
    ...is that going to bring the usual ‘nightmares of the unexpected’ that everything I tackle seems to solicit? Torque wrench required and 6 pairs of hands etc...then driving in fear of the belt flying off?

    Since the tinware was removed i’m also looking at moving the air hose. Currently it is being crushed....
    [​IMG]
    ...so I am wondering if this additional hole can be used as it would allow for a more gentle curved return to the Heat Exchangers (think that’s what they are)?

    Finally, having read about the importance of tinware in controlling the heat of the engine, has anyone thought of Heat Wrapping the exhaust system to reduce rising heat?

    Cheers folks


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  2. JamesLey

    JamesLey Sponsor

    The crankshaft pulley isn't on there super tight (quick google suggests 33 ft lb), I got away with wrapping an old pulley belt around it , tightening it around a screwdriver and then undoing the bolt. You'll need a puller to get the pulley wheel off though, and make sure you mark the orientation of the wheel before you remove so it goes back on in the same place.
     
  3. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    I have often tapped with a hammer on the end of a spanner to get that nut loosened and tightened.

    There should be a woodruff key in a slot to align the pulley and take the torque of the fan and alternator.
    Key at 90 degrees to left pulley at TDC. It only goes on one way.

    As you have an aluminium degree pulley it will either just wiggle off by hand or be totally burred and hammered on.
    Before going for a puller which may damage the aluminium...
    Sometimes tapping the edge of the pulley backwards with a nylon hammer from by the oil pressure sender side while pulling on the right hand side with the other hand will get it off.
     
  4. Locktight that nut when replacing they come undone (ask me how i know ;))

    Wrapped exhaust/heat exchangers will absorb oil/fuel then Woof! Like the Phoenix club after Den Perry's Cigar
     
  5. Cheers guys!
    Taking the pulley off is sounding like something I should do with someone who knows what they are doing! A case of once witnessed its easy to repeat. I probably wouldn’t even know if I botched it. Ha ha At least without attempting it I know I can drive it to my mechanic


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  6. Hmmm seeing as how I am covered in oil trying to clean the engine your point makes sense!

    What about this stuff though:
    https://www.funkmotorsport.com/product/funk-reflective-gold-heat-tape/


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  7. As above, gripping the pulley with the fan belt should be enough for you to get the bolt off. It’s not done up that tight. The pulley may put up a fight, so likely need to use a puller, although your aftermarket job should be easier. The pulley’s keyed to the crankshaft, so you can’t put it on in the wrong position.

    Don’t wrap your exhaust in anything. If all the tinware’s there, it shouldn’t need it.
     
    Bulletooth, wingnut1574 and JamesLey like this.
  8. Gotcha Many thanks.
    Can I at least paint the exhaust (VHT) in a more flattering colour than Kurust Grey?
    Tinware will all be in place, eventually. Seeing as mine has that extra hose hole in it (first pics) I’m assuming that whichever one isn’t used should be capped off with some additional tin. I’ve noticed aftermarket stuff isn’t exactly the same as my VW stamped one. The new Behind Crankshaft piece also has a cutout for on Oil Filler (now infamous hey Snotty) breather down pipe which I could cap.


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  9. The tinware should have three big holes in it. Two for the heat exchanger pods and one for the preheat pipe to the air cleaner.
     
  10. It was me that looked at your engine for you at techenders.
    Your engine will thank you for replacing that missing tinware
     
    Wonty likes this.
  11. I see. Thanks.
    I have twin carbs so I think the setup is slightly different, in that the 3rd hole isn’t utilised for anything anymore - though it wouldn’t surprise me in the least if I was missing yet another piece!
    I was looking up images of other engines and they all look so different to me.
    Feeling quite out of my depth with this (hence the the thread title).


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  12. Cheers dude. Advice was gratefully received and acted on. Oil Filler on its way too Still cleaning so that I can at least see if new oil goes everywhere after my first oil change


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    paradox likes this.
  13. You’re doing fine. Twin carbs, the preheat hose hole is redundant, so needs bunging up (I fixed an ally plate over mine). Have you got a 4 into 1 exhaust? Need to try to keep heater hoses clear of it.
     
  14. stirlingmoz

    stirlingmoz Supporter

    I’ve got a puller. Bring it round again and we can whip it off in a jiffy ;)

    Stirlingmoz
     
    Wonty likes this.
  15. Could it be 2 into 1? 2 pipes coming out the engine then split to heat exchanges and also join to 1 leading to the cans...
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Currently the right side hose is horribly crumpled to connect with the Heat Exchanger...
    [​IMG]
    ...not clear of the pipes by any stretch of the imagination. That’s why i’m thinking to enlarge the redundant Preheat Hose hole and pass it through there for a smoother curve. Capping the original hole used.
    Cheers.


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  16. You are a star Stirling :)
    You’ll be proud of me for fixing my Oil light by myself ha ha
    I’ll bring more than a tin of sweets this time...but i’m a few weeks off getting it running again.
    Many thanks.


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