Pan: Headlight Switch headache

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by PanZer, Jul 4, 2019.

  1. Finally got some descent dash light and then it all went wrong again so I took a good look at my Light Switch and diagrams etc.
    It seems my setup is totally wired weirdly! Think @stirlingmoz commented as such when he helped me get High Beam working again.
    Thing is, as it is setup it does seem to ‘work’ (I’ve no frame of reference though), but I’ve got some concerns.
    1. Black/White connector gets extremely hot when the switch is pulled all the way out for that normal? Seems to be just 1 of 2 wires actually in the right place.
    2. According to diagrams I have found (none showing terminal 57 which I have at top left) the following are in the wrong place...
    -Red wire in to #57 should be #30
    -No diagram shows the White wire linking #57 to #X
    -#58 correctly has Grey wire in but shouldn’t have Grey/Red Dash Lights wire going out of it
    -#X is supposed to be for Power from Ignition Switch, whereas I have the White wire linked to #57
    -#56b is unused but should be for Dash Lights
    -#30 has Black/Yellow in from which should go to #X, and the Red wire in, currently connected to #57 should go be here

    These are diagrams I am going by:

    Tempted to just put it all how these diagrams state but since I know basically zilch about what I am doing I thought I’d check on here first.
    Just want the thing safe for starters...working would be a bonus! Ha ha
    The whole Switch is temperamental, in that I sometimes have to wiggle it for the headlights to work. I can’t remove the thing as don’t have an escutcheon tool and can’t seem to find one on line to buy.

    2 steps forward, 1 step backwards seems to be the way of things for me with PanZer.

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  2. Well in ain't safe, Marmitee wiring, no insulation on the terminals and anyone using wago connectors on a vehicle should be strung up.
    Firstly it looks like you have the black/yellow and the red cables back to front. VW fitted more than one type of switch over the years, need a picture of the terminal numbers to be sure.
    PanZer likes this.
  3. davidoft

    davidoft Sponsor

    looking at the fact a couple of the terminals that were used now aren't I would suspect the switch is fault on a couple o pins and wires have be swapped, piggy backed to keep the lights operating
    PanZer likes this.
  4. String me up then! I put the Wago there to test if a connection fault was due to this...
    ...which it was because the insulation was barely penetrated. Hence why my Dash Lights never worked reliably I guess.
    So Wago isn’t the way forward? An electrician (not auto) told me to use them.

    Terminals are like this:
    •7 terminals...
    -Top Left #57...
    —Red in + White link to #X
    -Bottom Left #58...
    —Grey in, Grey/Red out = Dash Lights
    -Extreme Bottom #X...
    —White link to #57
    -Bottom Middle #56
    —Black/White in
    -Bottom Right #58b...
    -Top Right pair #30...
    —Black/Yellow in to right connector

    & are in accordance with the diagrams.

    Should the wire to #56 not be getting hot?

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  5. Ahh, that could be an explanation.
    Might be time to get a new switch and sort it out properly then. Insulated terminals etc.

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    davidoft likes this.
  6. This. I’d get a new switch and wire it as per the diagram. Your wiring definately shouldn’t get hot.
    PanZer and davidoft like this.
  7. What year is it, terminal 57 was only used up to the crossovers for a dashboard lights on lamp.
    nicktuft likes this.
  8. [​IMG]

    This is what i’ve found for sale so far. No use to me without the tool to remove the nut though. Any ideas on how to source one of those?

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  9. It’s a ‘75. But i’m pretty sure there is a lot that isn’t strictly a ‘75!
    Read on here that #57 terminal was only used in the USA. I’ve no ideas though.
    Just want to wake up one day and have had a visit from the T2 Bay fairy who fixes everything!

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. 57 was used in europe upto 1973.
    Put the red onto one of the 30 terminals and the black/yellow onto the X terminal, leave the other wires off, check the red wire is 12v then pull the switch to sidelights, terminals 58 and 57 should become 12V.
    Switch the ignition on the black/yellow wire should now become 12V, pull the switch to the headlamps terminal 56 should then become 12V as well as 58 & 57, check it and see what reading you get.
    3901mick, Dubs, PanZer and 1 other person like this.
  11. To turn those nuts without a proper tool. Either tap it round carefully using a flat blade screwdriver or bend over the end of a bit of 1mm or thicker 20 mm (ish) wide strip steel leaving a couple of mm pointing up and cut a slot in it for the spindle then place the bent up bits of the end into the slot and turn using the other end of the strip as a handle.
    PanZer likes this.
  12. Cheers guys.
    Looks like i’ll finally be learning how to use the multimeter. Reckon I stand a better chance of making the tool though

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  13. The switch will be heated by the dash light dimmer if that isnt set to max. Especially if somebody earths the dash light output tag or overloads it. In which case as you set the dimmer to max it will expire in a puff of smoke.

    Check the wiring first.
  14. You can do them up with a pair of long-nose pliers.
  15. Actually a 12v Test lamp is easier and will work just as well for this type of work. Buy a decent one like this, don't buy th e brass ones the body becomes live when testing and can short out if it touches earth.
    PanZer likes this.
  16. PanZer likes this.
  17. My tool, (no comments Barry) does 6V & 12V escutcheons, anybody do laser cutting of steel on here?

    VW tool 001.JPG

    Attached Files:

    nicktuft and paradox like this.
  18. davidoft

    davidoft Sponsor

    Is it a bottle opener too ?
    monkeyvanwestybike and JamesLey like this.
  19. yes
    davidoft and PanZer like this.

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