Painting tips

Discussion in 'Restorations' started by zedders, Nov 10, 2011.

  1. Not all other primers are porus but most are;)
    That grey farm oxide and the likes of bonda primer are non porus
     
  2. Over sanded filler is it high build primer then normal primer then topcoat or is the high build not needed?
     
  3. High build then flat with a stick by hand. 2-pac high build is a pleasure to sand, sand it dry.
     
    womball likes this.
  4. I'll be using celly as i get allergic reactions from just opening seam sealer with isocyanate in it so got knows what would happen with 2K paint.
     
  5. Very sensible, it seems some people are more sensitive than others it's good that you found out before something very bad happened.
     
  6. It wasn't fun i can tell you. I only opened the jiffy bag it was delivered in and 10 minutes later i was fighting to get a breath and felt like i had really bad flu.:eek:

    Do you reckon 5L of high build primer and 5L of topcoat will be enough to do the outside, the dash, cant rails (above the doors) the bit under the back window and under the bonnet on a bug? With thinners at 50:50 that gives 10L of sprayable media for both primer and topcoat.
     
  7. No idea, I've never used celly.
     
  8. 5l of top coat will be plenty:) but 5l of filler primer.;) .....please don't take this the wrong way depends on how good you filler work is and how many coats you need as depends how much you thin it by;) but could be done with 5l of primer :thumbsup:
     
  9. When it comes to topcoat on the interior does one need to clear coat it too? I'm going basecoat clearcoat on the outside.


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  10. Only need clear coat on metallic finishes
     
    JamesLey likes this.
  11. Dubs

    Dubs Sponsor

    Are you using the same paint on the inside as the outside? If so, then yes you do need clearcoat if you want it to shine.

    If you don't want to use clearcoat, you could just get a litre of solid 2K in the appropriate colour.
     
    JamesLey likes this.
  12. Cheers fellas. It's a way off yet, so if I buy clearcoat and basecoat for the outside I can just use the basecoat inside without the clearcoat? It doesn't need to shine like the outside, just look reasonable.
     
  13. If you don't mind me asking, why clear over base???
     
    paradox and JamesLey like this.
  14. Dubs

    Dubs Sponsor

    No, Basecoat on its own will be Matt, and won't be hard waring. It's designed to have clearcoat over it.

    You can just buy regular 2K that is essentially base and clear together.
     
    JamesLey likes this.
  15. I'm still learning about all of this but from those that I've spoke to it's the best way to go for painting the outside of a car. I may be using the wrong terms though. My understanding is the base provides the colour then the clearcoat provides the shine and further protection.


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    Dubs likes this.
  16. Dubs

    Dubs Sponsor

    That's pretty much it. You can get decent results with just solid colour, but bc/cc gives a better finish. :thumbsup:
     
  17. I'll probably go bc/cc inside then as it'll give me a good chance to do some real practice before I hit the outside!


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    Dubs likes this.
  18. Use solid and mop it for a super shine
     
    JamesLey likes this.
  19. Expense goes out the window tbh as I've spent a lot of time and money on it so far so it's no biggie for me to give it a go.


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