Painting tips

Discussion in 'Restorations' started by Zed, Nov 10, 2011.

  1. Just got my van back after having some bodywork and paint. I've got some slight dull marks where flatting of the painted areas have gone into the existing paint, effectively dulling the laquer coat.
    I've also got ageing/swirl marks on the original paint as its now 14 years old and I've already found out to my cost that T-cut isnt the answer for metallic/solvent/lacquered finishes
    It a solvent paint, Seat Negri, with a heavy metallic content .

    Any advice on whats best to use/do to improve the finish?
     
  2. something less abrasive than t cut...:thinking:
     
    Coco likes this.
  3. What type of paint is best to restore the black rubbery faux leathers of the dashboard? mine are pretty faded but don't want the paint to come off the first time I pull myself from that handle...

    PS: sorry if this is the wrong thread..newbie to the forums still.
     
    Coco likes this.
  4. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    Resuming the conversation about paints here and hopefully add to this great thread, I wanted to ask how people do patch repairs?

    I have quite a few rust bubbles and areas that need attention. At some point I will either have to bite the bullet and do the whole camper, but in the mean time I'd like to stop the rot getting worse and do some patch repairs without the camper ending up looking like it has a pox!

    I think I have a base colour (red and does not have a shine) and a laquer or clear coat above that (are they one and the same thing?). This gives the paint a lovely gloss look.

    Finally, the so called laquer or clear coat is 'pealing away from the base coat. This is especially prevalent in the curved runner covers. Does this indicate a deeper problem?

    Thanks
     
  5. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    The lacquer requires a chemical bond to the basecoat. For that to happen it must be applied according to the spec sheet and IIRC that means pretty well as soon as the basecoat has flashed off. Leave it too long and you can get your problem.
     
  6. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    Thanks @zedders. I have yet to ever do any painting so all new to me. I have the resto book (birthday present from other half) and am reading a lot.

    The pealing issue was there when we bought the camper, so I'm surmising it doesn't indicate a bigger underlying issue, just bad workmanship.
     
  7. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    You'd be surprised how many people don't ask for the data when they buy paint. Or if it's provided don't read it. There was once an over heating engine builder / all round VW specialist around here painting/lacquering something or other weeks after the basecoat. When I pointed out this was all wrong his reply was "I know what I'm doing, I've always done it like that". You can lead a horse to water...
    When painting a whole van you have to do everything that unbolts as one or more jobs and the main stripped van as another or it's just too much. That possibly explains why some parts are worse - they were left longer. Getting it all complete is a nightmare. When I did mine I somehow ended up with everything painted except the side covers and the outside of the engine lid. :rolleyes:
     
  8. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    Back to the question and general knowledge, what is the best method to feather in small patch repairs with a base and lacquer!/clear coat set up?

    Would it be remove rust, fix as necessary, fill, prime, base and lacquer with the feathering done outside the repair area in a donut effect. If so any special methods for the merging of old and new?
     
    SeanOC likes this.
  9. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Too late now I expect.
    Do the spot repairs and feather the paint as best you can, then lacquer the entire panel to hide it.
     
    Chrisd likes this.
  10. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    AIR CAPS

    We all read about which size nozzle to use for what paint, but equally, perhaps more important is the air cap.
    Small and you end up with very fine mist, which is good for small awkward items.
    For a vehicle you need a larger air cap that allows you to paint faster and lay it on thick in one pass.
     
  11. I have some questions for my restoration. When I start welding in panels like sills, floor pan, front nose piece ect... Is it a better job to remove the transit primer or the primer it has. I have one panel which is the black ecoat (the front panel) and the rest are a grey and silver like the JK panels. Most of these will not be accessible after I weld them in and want to make them last especially where they are hidden from the final spry paint job. If so what paint should I use on them. Also what is a good paint type to paint the underside like the chassis.
     
  12. You might find some of the panels already have surface rust under the transit primer. Best to strip it off, rust cure (possibly) and coat with weld through primer or similar.
    Epoxy primer seems to be the best coating nowaday. POR15 seems to sometimes flake off in sheets when used on good rust free steel.
     
  13. Is weld through primer suitable for areas such as inside jacking points, on top of the chassis beam section under the top hat. Is this a good permanent paint job even if the exposed areas get epoxy paint?
     
    SeanOC likes this.

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