Old VW Engineer

Discussion in 'Introduce Yourselves' started by Robert Parry, Sep 30, 2014.

  1. will be sending my engine/s this week to him ... trevor will ride again! :)
     
    art b, MorkC68 and SweeneyTodd like this.
  2. You'd best bribe Rob before @zed gets there on his quest for more power :D
     
    Ermintrude likes this.
  3. Hi rob:thumbsup:
     
  4. davidoft

    davidoft Sponsor

    Could you build a Porsche 356 engine up, bit of machine work etc no doubt @Robert Parry
     
  5. Yes can do, not done one of those for a while, parts when you can get them are expensive. What model is it? The 75s are cheaper to recon than the 90s and the SC engines. Robert
     
  6. davidoft

    davidoft Sponsor

    Don't know actually, I know it's not a super 90, or an SC so be a process of elimination it must be a 75, can check the engine number. Parts are always expensive once you add the word Porsche :eek:
     
  7. The engine number will tell you but it is not always correct as the rear case quite often gets changed if the oil pump has worn or as I have found it has a "better" number making the motor worth more. If you can get a look at the barrels this will tell you the 75 barrels are cast iron the 90s are alloy. You can ring me on 07935935179. Robert
     
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  8. Hi Robert
    Need advise with my new 1800 AP type 4 engine.
    This engine was supplied by Heritage and is remanufactured by SSV. Since fitted I have had problems with temperature being high and running around 120C to 140Cand has done 600 miles. Have had this rolling road tuned and achieved 92 BHP with no changes to the weber 34 ICT carb jets. High hydrocarbon reading and just had compression test done as attached. The readings appear to be low and the good guys on this forum suggest to have the engine re-examined as compression should be around 135. Have spoken to Heritage who have agreed to have the engine returned for testing at my expense until proved to be faulty and not overheated. The heat decal fitted to the engine has not changed so in my openion not overheated.

    As your the expert nearest to where I live in Luton I would value your openion and advise. Also do have a workshop where I can bring the camper to you to have a look at as want to oort this out properly. All the tinware is fitted and new thermostat and heat exchangers so don't know where to go next.

    Compression test after tappet reset to 8MM .JPG Engine temp decal.JPG
     
  9. Where are you checking the temperature, what speeds you doing etc. mine is about 120 but temp sender is in the oil filter head so probably its hottest part.
     
  10. Temp is via dip stick sender and max speed I do is around 55 mph. Am goeing to do longer run on sat as this is when temp rises. Hopefully it stays around 120c.
     
  11. You could try the dipstick test.
     
  12. Hi Robert, good to hear you on here, sure you'll be plenty busy
     
  13. What fuel pressure have you got through the ICT's? We have got ours restricted down to 2.5psi (feed is a Rotary Fuel Pump)
     
  14. Your compression readings are awful for a new engine. Your engine will not be producing its correct HP with low compressions, this will make you drive it harder and will raise the oil temp. A lot of engine reconditioners do not lap in valves but use seat cutters with a 1 degree difference to form a good seal if this is not done correctly you will end up with the readings you have. If I had a problem with one of my engines it would be collected Free and returned the same. Shame on you Heritage. Robert
     
    zedders, onion, Baysearcher and 2 others like this.
  15. Top man :)
     
  16. Baysearcher

    Baysearcher [secret moderator]

    Can't say fairer than that!
     
  17. New that engine would have produced 68 BHP, either the rolling road is very optimistic (most are, but not that much) or the engine is significantly upgraded. But to obtain even close to 92 BHP with such poor compression readings is impossible.
     
  18. Hi Rob, it's nice to welcome a genuine person and VW enthuesast to the forum ! Some may say mad if you have worked on them in the past.

    But I suppose if you have enough room, time, patience and the right tools it can be a joy :D
     
  19. Thanks Rob and all you guys. Will see how she behaves after long run this weekend before I have a word with supplier again. Running with the original mechanical fuel pump and done dripstck finger test when stopped to cool Engine. Seemed ok to me as no burning fingers. Link to pictures I sent heritage showing rolling road BHP figures as too large file to post on here.
    https://www.dropbox.com/sh/9wv654onh8e0o61/AAD3L_28uJW2b6eg20JXkgz8a?dl=0
     
  20. Well latest update is
    1. Done 30 miles on town and country roads and temp maxed out at 120c.
    2. Done 40 miles each way on sustained motorway speeds of 55 - 60 MPH and 1st run temp maxed out at around 125c on a hot Sat afternoon. Way back in the late evening at cooler temp it stayed steady at 120c.
    Am using Morris 30 oil just changed 200 hundred miles ago and going to change to 15W40 for the two week road trip planned for 1st August and stop if temp gets above 120c.
    Any ideas as to which oil manufacturer to use ?
    Thinking of Ultra triple QX mineral oil as on offer at the moment .
    After road trip may take decision to get engine out and fight warranty claim.

    Many thanks Guys.
     

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