Noisy engine and teddies all over the garage

Once enough has been trodden into the carpet it makes your carpets waterproof, in a childminders house waterproof carpets are a bonus. And if some of the children you're minding are potty training it's pretty essential.

 

But I've just read one of your other posts that's you'll be breaking in the cam, which I guess means the builder has put the engine together and that's it. I trust you didn't have to pay him a lot of money for this build? If he'd run the engine up, compression tested it, recorded oil pressure and broken the cam in he'd have noticed the issue you're speaking of if it is indeed an issue with the engine and not your HX.

This is why I build my own

 

Hi Bob and sorry to hear the continuing saga

You're probably fed up with exhausts but I remembered seeing something on the Ratwell site - if nothing else it'll show your doing it the right way!

http://www.ratwell.com/technical/Exhaust.html

Keep the faith and the volume in the noisy cupboard will be back to normal soon!

Mr B

 

Yeah but doing all that would double the cost of it

 

That's good advice for getting the top of the hx nice and even

 

It's no wonder half of the engine builders out there get such a bad press if they're not even checking the engine they've built actually runs. If they're then relying on a DIY installation any issue could be missed and end up irreparable. Id have considered spending an hour running the engine up on a bench, confirming its got good compression all round, good oil pressure and no leaks the most basic of practices for a 'professional' or 'DIY' engine builder alike. If the cost of taking these basic steps will double the cost of building an engine then they must be pretty crappy engines to begin with !!

 

Im sorry as I havent read all this and dont know what you have checked. Have you run this for any length of time? Cant you leave it running and work your way around the engine to identify the location of the noise. Are all your servo connections well - connected. On start up on a new motor you can expect the carbs to cough and splutter and have some detonation through the carbs. Will sound like ita about to explode but will also blow your servo pipes off the manifold, particularly on standard carbs. Other issues are its blowing at the head (compression test) or a stuck valve (same and also will be obvious when you take the rocker cover off).

 

Incidentally on replacing exchangers you should anneal the copper gaskets. Also you will find even if torqued up correctly getting it warm and giving it a carefu tighten (not too much) will sort any blowing. Another issue on Type 4 xchangers is that the header flange can break off ie the welds shear - they are only tacked on!

 

That's an excellent article Mr B thank you. I haven't been able to get onto it today but I'll see if I get time tomorrow.

 

The issue is that his cam needs to be run in to harden it. This needs running up at 2000rpm for 20 minutes. The concern he has is what is at fault? Continuing to start the engine and shutting it off will feck the cam and lifters and dramatically shorten the cams life to just a few hundred miles as it will wear like putty

 

Running it cold for 20 seconds will ***** the cam up? Really!

 

I was always under the impression that the RPM should be varied when running a cam in, but I'm no expert...
just had a read around and the twenty minute break in seems to be an industry standard...
you live and learn

 

Nah I'm cool. its sorned until 1st Nov anyway and we wouldnt use it until the weekend so I've still got a few days until I need to get really peeved.

 

I generally do it as part of the build, if it's a pallet job

Gives me peace of mind knowing it has been done correctly, and saves face on anything going wrong on the installation at the other end

 

I'm surprised that @zed hasn't been round yet

 

I spoke to the builder today. He didn't know anything about a second hole underneath the head as has been mentioned here a few times. Is there Definately two holes in a head with the egr hole?
He didn't do a compression test
@davidoft and @Paul Weeding

 

Sounds like he's just plugged the top dude!!

There is definitely a second gap...

so has he just plugged the hole in this pic (to the left of the inlet port) at the very top?

 

Taken from ratwell... sound familiar??

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1800cc heads come in two varieties because they were fitted to 74 Type 4 carburetor engines and 75 Type 4 FI engine. The FI version has a blind hole near intake #3 for the temp sensor II. If you use this head as part of your engine project you don't have to worry about the hole because it's blind.

If you have the head from the 74 bus, then you'll notice two holes on either side of the intakes. These are not breather openings to vent pressure from behind the valve cover. They are air injection holes to allow oxygen to be introduced into the exhaust stream to help burn unburned mixture (after burning). Two tubes were hooked up to those ports which lead to an air pump that way driven off the pulley. Removing the air pump is a good ideal because it's overly complicated and not very effective.

Some people rebuild their engine using these heads and have no idea why there is soot in the engine compartment or why it's so noisy. The holes have to be plugged up after the pump is removed. Two tubes are screwed into the holes and they are difficult to remove sometimes without stripping the threads. After removing the tubes you need to plug the holes and the best way to do it is with a 10x1 valve adjusting screw and some Loctite 518. If the threads are in bad shape you will have to chase them with a tap to clean up the threads.
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