Next Techenders 27 - 29th April 2018

Some time in the Fosse Way bar on Saturday night of T/E the September date will be decided.

 

I thought I was away in Scotland on these dates but I was wrong.

May make an appearance after 3 or 4 years of no shows.

 

Yes

Yes, I have.

Something will probably come up!

 

I’m hoping to come along to this one! Assuming I don’t break any bones this time!

I wanted to look at air/oil cooling last time and that’s still something I’d like to look at. I’m convinced she’s running hot.

How feasible would it be to fit a temp sender to my engine at a place such as this? Or even a full flow oil filtration kit?

(T2 1600tp)


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I’d go for the dipstick one , mine is pretty accurate easy to fit , keep original dip stick for checking oil ,don’t be filling marks in the new sender dipstick as suggested by jk n likes . Test it in jar of what you know is boiling water .ps if you have a spare dial on yr dash that will need cutting for your vdo gauge or a dash top one , wire needed from front to back too .

 

I have that now, and a worry gauge that maybe does it’s job to well! It’s in Fahrenheit too which adds to the worry. Long drives it shows 260F which is getting on for 135C.


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That’s too hot you need to look at other stuff .how fast are you driving it ?

 

50-60mph tops.

I agree, too hot. Oil wants to be around 100C.

God knows what the cylinder head temps are going to be, but logic says higher than that.

Hence the ask.

I’d like to mount a temp sender to the block or close to #3 cylinder head, rather than the dip stick.

Also

Add a remote oil filter and housing so that she carries more oil (and aid cooling) plus give me the option to cut in a remote oil cooler into the mix.

All my Tinware is intact and the garage I took it to last year said everything looks fine.


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Mixture ? Timing ? What exhaust ? Any cracks in heads ?

 

135 degrees is far too hot for 50-60 mph. You may have jammed cooling flaps or a very lean mixture.

The only two times I have managed 130 degrees plus was when I had a jammed thermostat wire .. that fixed itself, by the time I stopped .. I was at the end of a 10 mile run at 65mph and then by the time I stopped nothing was wrong...

And the other time was when I left some covers on the engine bay air intakes.


Temperature sender - either dipstick or drain plate (if you have one with a nut in it otherwise you need an oil change to change that plate ..)

Full flow oil filter - only if you came so prepared you might as well have done it already.

The only way to do it with the engine in is to fit something like a CB Performance Maxi 3 pump with in/out on the cover. But to get the hoses to it , you have to hack the engine mounting bar. But given that, you can do it on the driveway. .. I do have a spare new unused CB Performance Maxi 3 pump , I think all it would need is the right gasket as that was missing when it arrived.

My setup will be at Techenders, so you can take a look ..

Just drive very carefully to keep the temperature down to avoid being the bus that breaks down between the gate and the campsite..

 

Erm air and fuel is definitely mixed, and it runs and has an exhaust (specifics unknown )

No symptoms of cracked heads.


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mixture doesn’t want to be too lean thou ,,,,,,,,,,
You missed the timing one ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,? Just because it runs doesn’t mean it’s set right

 

Sorry I didn’t miss it the answer is the same. It was set by my garage when she went in for an appraisal. (Absolute VW in Derby)

So to me that is an unknown. Sorry. They did set the Carb etc as it was a fuelling issue that she went in for. The fuel had become contaminated with water thanks to a leaky filler cap.

But when I picked her up and drove her back from Southampton to Birmingham she ran hot too. Previous owner said to just stop for 30 mins when it got to 260F.

it was a wet and cold summers day and we took it easy @55mph. It still got that hot eventually.

Sorry if I’m hijacking this techenders thread. I should start a separate one.


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I have this vision !
Me...if Rock up there and
Mention the S word to grumpy moony and the Cook ..







(Hopeless They don't even use real bees )

 

So are they drones..
Not sure about that one for me all the same.

 

The water may have carried rust and dirt into the carburettor.
It may need a more thorough clean out before the mixture is right.

Dont worry about thread hijack. The thing is that cylinder heads crack in ways that are invisible. The T1 1600 engine will run with a cracked head for ages and a garage cannot see without removing the heads. With a T4 there is a greater danger of valve seats falling out of the heads land wrecking things.

A sign of cracking round the spark plug hole can be increased difficulty of putting the plug in when you change plugs and/or the plug falling out by itself as the metal moves..

My cylinder heads are cracked and I dont know how long ago it happened.. they arent getting worse , I take a look from time to time , and I can still keep up 68mph.

 

Is there a thread to add name etc as normal as hoping to make this one

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You can add yourself as number 1 on this thread.

@Baysearcher can always copy and paste it into a separate thread if needed