NewtoVW/tinworm - Slow restoration thread.

Discussion in 'Restorations' started by NewtoVW, Sep 25, 2012.

  1. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Can't believe you left the cab door on!
     
  2. I had to.. The wife kept falling out :D
     
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2015
    shielsy and zed like this.
  3. Scary :hattip:
     
    NewtoVW likes this.
  4. Your photos don't show for me
     
  5. :( uploaded from photo bucket.. I'm not sure if there is anything else I can do?

    Bus is now on it's side.. I have now got to remove 43 years of poo from the underside of the bus. What is the best way to remove all that black stuff?
    Then weld on all the outriggers, jacking points and sills. then the paint.. I'm thinking rustoleum?
     
  6. It was scary.. There was a lot of brute force and ignorance involved.. At one point I was holding the weight of the bus on it's roll over point all on my own.
    I nearly Busted a nut :eek:
     
    womball likes this.
  7. Ha busted a nut :rolleyes:your be alright you've got another :p
     
  8. I've got to roll it back yet o_O
     
    zed and womball like this.
  9. Tuesday.First day off for a week and I spent it scraping that black Marmite of the underside of the bus.. I think this will take a month of sundays to remove :(

    Typical, I sold my sand blasting pot a few months ago because I thought I wouldn't need it again.

    Wednesday.Edit. Ordered another sandblasting pot.
    Friday.Edit again. Sand blasting pot arrived.
    [​IMG]
    Sunday. Edit..Made a start at removing all the old underseal..Comes up quite clean.. A few PO rivet holes need to be sorted.
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2015
  10. Even with a sand blasting pot this black underseal poo is taking an age to get off.. It does get it right back to the metal and looks good but it does reveal all of the poor work that has been previously done.
    Before I started the drivers side inner sill looked really good, I thought it was a new panel. After removing the black stuff it still looked good but there wasn't a single weld holding it to the vehicle.. There was a dozen self tapping screws and a pot of seam sealer, that's all that was holding it in place. And it was fitted over the remains of the original inner sill.
    The original sill or what was left of it is nearly off now, so are the drivers side outriggers. Looks like I'll have to replace the front and rear top hats or at least the ends of each one.
    Not much of an update but I'm still at it :theforce:
     
    art b likes this.
  11. Did a little bit more today, the rotten sill has been defeated/removed..

    [​IMG]

    I found a little bit of rot where the rear outrigger meets the chassis so I cut it out and replaced with good steel.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    A little bit more sand blasting..
    [​IMG]

    Just ordering a few more bits from Schofields.. It seems they have 10% off a lot of parts at the moment and I used the discount code as well :thumbsup:
     
  12. LOVE IT!. gonna copy this if you don't mind :)

    By the way, did you need to modify the front inner valance when converting to a prototype front?
     
  13. Copy away.. Be my guest.. Glad you like the idea. Just post pics and tell peeps where the idea came from. TLB.
    Front inner valance? I bought the early by mistake.. Then bought the late solid valance. I had no problems fitting it.
     
  14. [​IMG]

    so that valance was ok and didn't need modification?
     
  15. @Niall Looking at that picture, I seem to remember having to trim off the top edge that sticks out horizontally until it's almost flush with the vertical part. Only about 1/2 am inch.
    You will see what I mean when you offer up the outer lower valance. Don't trim it until you have offered the outer up to it. Just to be sure.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Just remember I'm not an expert. I'm doing things the best way I know how to and I've probably got some bits wrong. This is my first resto and it's a very steep learning curve.
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2016
    art b likes this.
  16. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    That rings a bell - the late valance has a flange to sit the front panel on and weld the deformation panel to, it sticks out past where an early flush panel finishes.
     
  17. No you're spot on here. Figured it would need trimming but haven't got there yet.
    Thanks for clearing it up.
     
  18. I am pleased that I could help another Late bay member ^^^ especially me being a newbie :)
    But back to the plot. Sills, they are a pain in the backside.
    Schofields sent me an outer sill a sill strengthener and an inner sill. I'm getting to grips where they go as most of the original sills were not there :(
    I think I have figured it out. Just need conformation.

    The sill strengthener.
    [​IMG]
    I thought I might use some self tapping screws where the red marks are to hold this in place while I weld it.
    The green marks around the holes are where the outer sill was drilled out.

    This area below had two or three layers of steel. I cut them down to the original I think and the strengthener seems to fit tighter
    [​IMG]
    Clamping the strengthener in place.. Curve doesn't fit. should I clamp and weld as I go?
    [​IMG]

    Any help welcome :confused:
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2016
  19. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    It has a real actual curve! Good for Schofields, they used to be straight - try joining those up!
     
  20. All the sill parts I've bought from Schofields are good. I would recommend them :thumbsup:
    I have an inner sill for the other side that is made by someone else and the quality doesn't seem anywhere near as good.
     

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