New Vintage Speed Exhaust ..... Disaster .... Too Hot ~ Any Ideas?

Mines the normal vintage speed bus one not the extra tucked in one. It gets very hot i burnt my neck and I mean burnt blistered and a faint scar....
It's the size of it.
Don't heat wrap it but if your oil filters lines are close protect them with a fiberglass woven tube.
The exhaust was reheating my oil in the lines Be live it or not.
I used the temp setting on my multi meter to see the difference.

 

thanks for all your helpfull comments

 

Hi All
I'm quite late to this thread.

I seem to have same heat exhust set up problem.

Did it the extra heat issue get resolved? Someone suggested I put a standard exhauts back on!¬
thanks

 

Well, there you go checking your bumper to see how hot it is... why?
I've had these exhausts on a racy 2L type-1 with J-tubes and now on a 2.4l type-4 and never lost any paint, but also I've never checked to see if the bumper is hot either, I can't think I'd do that unless there was smoke and it turned out to be burning paint! Exhausts get very hot, hardly surprising?

 

It seems the exhaust is set higher than standrd so it is only a few milimeters from touching, hence heat is transfered easily to tin/valance.

 

The VS exhausts are bigger than stock and so will make the tinware hotter as they come closer to the metal.

If the tinware is colour coordinated, buy another black set for real use and keep the painted set for driving off the trailer at shows.

 

My 1700 with bs exhaust, black powdercoated tin and exhaust heat shield .. no problems or heat issues here ..

 

I like sitting on my bumper after a long drive out in winter ...warms my arse.

 

did you put a seperate heat shield on? above exhaust? Only got a few mm on one bit...

 

I did use some adhesive backed "turbo heat shield" stuck to the underside of my tinware as used on metal surfaces around exhausts..

I also found that with some home made little brackets round the heat riser pipes screwed between the rear tin and the cylinder head tin on my T1 it lifted the rear tinware noticeably away from the exhaust header pipes, also helping a bit. Its also a lot less floppy so it no longer hits the exhaust header.

 

I decided to run some heat tests, which are in no way 100% accurate but an indicator at best...


Drove 30 minutes then took temp of valance and rear tin = V = 44° and RT = 92°


Added a fuel repair solution as tried most other things and read ABOUT WATER IN FUEL MAKES THEM RUN LEAN AND HOT!


Drove 30 minutes then took temp of valance and rear tin = V = 28° and RT = 72°


Who knew....

 

I found something similar but as revs and speed go up the cooling effect of faster fan and airflow seem to cool the bumper and tin ware
I recon those erzs are good for around 10 degrees on a good run

 

Is there any change to engine temperature?

I measure oil and cylinder head temperature but I don’t know or care how hot the valance is.

 

Which brand of additive , as water in combistion chambers usually cools an engine ?

 

I've still got the burn on my neck if that helps it's faded well but not 100% gone

 

Also a good additive for removing liquid water fron fuel tanks is ... ethanol..