No but will give it a go. Will do a compression check also just in case although I don’t expect it to show anything.
Running twin weber 34ict’s. Jets were 145 mains 165 air & 55 idles. The 1911 motor i took out ran good with this jetting. Tried it first as above. Then rejetted at 165 mains 185 air & 55 idles. Also changed the emulsion tubes for F6’s. Fuel pressure is regulated by a Hyco 12v low pressure pump. None of the rejetting has made any significant difference to the uneven idle & pickup.
Possibly firing but not combusting correctly. Thing is it smoothes out above about 1500rpm. Will do the rpm drop test while pulling the leads off one by one.
Re set the tappet clearances from cold, A tight valve will do that. Do it to eliminate it from the possible causes. Remove a plug lead at a time while its running and listen for the revs to drop. The bad cylinder wont have a RPM drop. When you find the offending cylinder you've moved a step further in fixing it. I have a 010 distributor for sale
Ran through the tappets when it was cold after the cam bedding in run & they were all good. Will run through them again to be sure. Will do the lead disconnect & see if its one cylinder that’s causing the issue.
You might find where your cam/ crank relationship was compared to this if it's any use in ruling something out.. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Thanks I used that vid during the rebuild Shame its not accessible to see cam n gear now its back in van. I am just thinking is it a cam or cam gear that’s been made out of tolerance
It does sound more carb related if it's drawing too much air at idle to keep running... sounds like our stock carbs with idle screw turned right out...sucks like a good un and revs to match... Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Edit: this is what happens when you try the "2-3 turns out as a start" guidance more like 1 and a bit on the big air screw for us.. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
..well..I must admit I have a very very similar issue as you with my 2 litre..I have it for years now..I tried everything hundred of times..I noticed the problem first after rebuild..the only thing I changed was the cam apart from obvious stuff like bearings, rings, valves etc..anyways I got the cam, std btw, from my friend who build big performance engines over in the US..was told he only ran it for week or two then replaced it with a webs one..he ran it in his 74 type 4 so I was told..I compared the new with the old worn one all the lobes seemed exactly same..so put all bach together..first start shaky like hell..after 1500-2000 rpms seems ok..checked everything replaced with new or different off my bug..went to Poland and back no probs but no way to set the idle nice and even..so engine out split the case checked again..every5hing seems fine..so put back together and..still same..thought I replaced everything but carbs..so old solexs out dells in..guess what..still no change!!..the temp presure spot on..does 70-80 mph easly but seems strugle uphills like loosing power a bit with solexs..last year I decided to take the heads off check the valves..so I did..found out loose valve guide..thought yeah got it..it must be the problem couse..ended up replacing the head..did all guides valves ect..back in..compresion test..all cylinders nice and even..always were after rebuild btw..and guess what..still the same..shaking at idle like hell..drives well pulls well..but idles like crap..olny been out changing oil do the valves timing and tunning the carbs..shaky shaky..some nuts getting loose cos of it..after all those years you are actualy first person with the same problem..anyway I still think its a timing related problem aswell.. Wysłane z iPad za pomocą Tapatalk
..wish I had a solution..never had this issue with any of my type 1s..this is my first type 4 but they not that different are they?.. Yeah still blame timing issue too.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
..yeah..could not find the solution for years Im affraid..was gonna pull the engine and take it apart again..that’sthe only way I guessbut after all I done and tried I figured out the engine needs pulling again.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
..first of all make sure your fuel presure is correct 2.5-3 psi.. ..second check for vacuum leaks but not with spraying wd40 all over the engine (this method sucks imo) do a smoke test..it will cost you few quid to make ur own smoke tester (see on yt).. ..then vacuum test..I tried this method last year but not sure I did it correctly..anyway when I plugged in the vacuum gauge it was fluctuating like hell all over the scale on all 4 cylinders..This pointed me theres somthing wrong with the timing too..In fact Im goin to do a vacuum retest today and will see what happens..btw I did some videos of my engine running and checking stuff but do no how to piut it up on here... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
