My 79 Tintop- Goonerbus

Discussion in 'Show Us Your Ride' started by chrisgooner, Oct 6, 2011.

  1. Thanks mate, don't look too close I had a reaction on parts of it so it needs flatting back.
     
  2. Like the way thus is coming together- going to look good all red up to the gutter and driftwood style interior us inspired.
     
  3. Bit more progress, rear corner painted today, 15 minutes after the final coat it rained lol( took this pic whilst it was raining).
    Ran out of paint now.
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  4. Gave the left rear corner, engine lid and valance a tidy up, only rattle can but looks better untill I can afford to get it done properly.
    Before
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    After
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    scottrs and paradox like this.
  5. Gave the front a rattle can tidy up in the summer.
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    After
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  6. A previous owner chopped about the bulk head so ive decided to chop it off.
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    I'll chop the other side out at some point in the winter.
    Moved my gas plumbing for the propex bottle so it now slots into my sink unit.



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    Last edited: Nov 9, 2014
    Merlin Cat likes this.
  7. Have you got it back then Chris?
     
  8. @Top Banana Racing no these are just updates from the summer. You'll know when I get it back cos you're coming with me :D
     
  9. Merlin Cat

    Merlin Cat Moderator

    Very nice :) - not so sure on the name tho! ;)
     
    chrisgooner likes this.
  10. :thumbsup:Been a while since I updated this.
    Now that I've moved the gas bottle to the sink cabinet^^^ it gives me a bit more room by the propex. I'm planning on putting a shelf/ structure of some kind over the propex and then having hinged lid between the seats, so I have a bit of storage there. Also gonna stick a couple of cup holders in the front bit.

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    I've also chopped out both sides of the bulkhead and had to re-site the propex controls. Which makes things easier when camping but no so easy to switch on whilst driving.

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    The solution was to put a switch in the cab. This also helps to isolate the feed so I don't get a draw from the propex when not in use. @Majorhangover :thumbsup:

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    Last edited: Mar 1, 2016
    Merlin Cat and MorkC68 like this.
  11. @Dicky i'm thinking ahead to when I buy and install a hook up kit. I'm looking at putting a single 240v socket on the unit above. Ideally I want a flush fit socket, is there a perticular back box I can buy to achieve this?
     
  12. If you just want the one then id fit a cbe socket. They should come with a backbox and faceplate so you drill a 50 mm hole with a hole cutterpull flex through to front. Thread through backbox which will have a cable retainer. Terminat into sochet. It all clips together then pushes into hole screwed to surface through holes in front plate and then a faceplate clips over it. Variety of faceplates available. Took me about 45 mins to fit one to mine and that was only cos my battery drill needed charging. Other option is to fit a fastfix plasterboard backbox (which is a larger square cutout) no cable retainer but something can be fasioned with a couple of holes drilled and a cable tie or two. You can then fit a domestic faceplate of your choice.

    Some people, where the back of the unit isnt accessible would just cut a hole connect socket and screw to front with woodscrews. You could do this but i would advise fitting a backbox over it to prevent contact with live bits.
     
    chrisgooner likes this.
  13. Btw ive put a remote control on the propex so i can switch from drivers seat or even when in bed, or from outside for that matter.
     
  14. Look here you will see socket, backbox, frame and faceplate. Aim to spend about a tenner for the socket. Pricey but easy. Fastfix and single socket from screwfix will be less than half that to be honest but its a bigger job.
     
  15. Cheers fella, planning on putting a standard socket under the bed for the C-Tek and a flush single socket on the unit.

    Can't see anything on this post, did you put a picture or a link?
     
  16. The pallet wood looks awesome!
     
    chrisgooner likes this.
  17. Cheers fella :thumbsup:
     

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