My 75' Panel Restoration (my first bus!!!)

Discussion in 'Restorations' started by Kenzie, Aug 11, 2011.

  1. Trial fit of the out valance for a gap check against the engine lid. Van looks on the squiff because of a smaller tyre on the offside.

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    paradox likes this.
  2. Hiya , my pop top looks exactly the same as yours, i have the 2 bar thingys at the 2 ends , but i dont have any other brackets to lock the roof in the up position, also i need to source a new canvas for it , does anybody have any ideas what roof these are , well done with your project mate and keep up the good work, ours is not quite as bad as yours but its still got loads of welding to be done, cheers
     
  3. I know there is a lot to do, it has been mentioned a few times early on that I am crazy but my wife wants it done. Ran out of wire last night which is a pain!
     
  4. Keep at it dude:thumbsup:
     
  5. Get the van level mate before you weld in major panels. The shell will twist a little once stuff is cut off.
     
  6. Thanks for the tip Zebedee! I will look at what wheel match to see if I can bring the back level. I am also making sure that all the panel shuts line up before welding anything as well.
     
  7. Started well on the engine seal section, nice small welds, but then I shifted position to get around the d-pillar and it all went to poo

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    The neatest weld I have done in a while!

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    Fuel line joint:

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    I assume that this is the starter motor wiring? Tucked up by the back of the gearbox

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    Last edited: Nov 12, 2014
    Kruger likes this.
  8. Kruger

    Kruger Sponsor

    Fair play for keeping at it,

    The wiring is starter motor or afterburner depending what was originally fitted to the van, flux capacitor models would have a completely different plug there.
     
    womball likes this.
  9. Does anyone know where I can buy the foam stuff that fits on between the rear arch tub and the side panel?
     
  10. Oh, and still plugging away!

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  11. You can use closed cell foam camping mat or some restorers use a thick bead of polyurethane sealent
     
  12. Ta very much @paradox. I repaired on of the inner wheel arch bits but I used sheet steel so it won't have the curve along the bottom. I'm not sure if I like it and I may cut it out and use a side panel and patch it in.
     
  13. Kruger

    Kruger Sponsor

    @Kenzie if you dont want to use polyurethane sealant between the pa els, you can also use old style butyl sealant which is like a rubberised putty low tac bead of sealer and comes on a roll.

    Not having the curve inside the inner tub panel is not such a bad thing - it'll stop a water trap forming between the inner/outer panels.
     
  14. @Kruger, I will leave it as it is then. Going back up tonight to do some more work.
     
  15. Right engine panel going in

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  16. Got some new wheels but the studs aren't long enough. Where can I get longer ones?
     
  17. Any of the big shops ie vwh or. . . . . . .
     
  18. Things have kind of come to a halt at the mo, but I will be cracking on again soon!
     
  19. I admire your motivation for your bus. I had almost the same rotten chassis and now the only part that is left from original bus is inner window surounding panels and inner C column plate.

    If you want to ever get rid of rust... you simply need to change everything


    Good luck ;)
     
  20. Would you advise putting the battery trays in first then the corner or the other way round? Still working away in the background on this!
     

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