My 1970 bug

Discussion in 'Restorations' started by Zebedee, Sep 9, 2011.

  1. Got a couple of springs out of one of the other buckles i have so gonna see if i can get this thing back together and working again.
    2019-08-06 10.02.10.jpg
     
  2. Belt stalk is not fixable as a white plastic bit inside is broken up. Looking for a replacement.

    Had a look through the last box of parts i have and still didn't find the mirror for the passengers door. I'm pretty sure i wouldn't have binned it as it was a mint genuine one. I screwed the mount to the door months ago but the rest of it has just dissappeared into the abyss. :rolleyes:
    2019-08-06 16.01.13.jpg

    Gonna see if i can get the engine static timed, throw some fuel into the carb and fire it up this afternoon.
    Atleast the weather forcast seems OK anyway.
     
    paradox likes this.
  3. Got the engine in. Managed so stightly bend one bottom stud so removed it and threadlocked a replacement in.
    Just the nut on starter bolt and the other top one to do. Its not a captive nut like on a twinport so you need to be at both the engine side and gearbox side at the same time. If i was mr Tickle it wouldn't be a problem. ;)

    Piccy was taken when it was slightly in and i stopped for a pee and a cuppa while waiting for the threadlock to set on the lower mounting stud.
    2019-08-07 16.24.36.jpg
     
  4. Back bumper bolted back on after we managed to get the top two nuts fitted.
    2019-08-08 17.06.06.jpg
     
    paradox and Cloppper like this.
  5. Got accepted into the Dalemain show at Penrith next sunday. Just need to get the final few bits buttoned up and MOT'd. :eek:
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    CollyP, Barneyrubble, paradox and 2 others like this.
  6. Got the heater hoses from the heat exchangers to under the back seat fitted, the heater cables and fuel line connected up and the removable rear valance fitted.
    Realised the top wing mounting bolt that holds the valance in is hidden slightly behind the bumper brackets so the bumper will need to come back off to bolt the valance on. :rolleyes:
    2019-08-10 16.13.21.jpg
    2019-08-10 16.13.27.jpg

    Taper tips clear the cutouts in the rear valance nicely with about 10mm clearance. So glad i opened them up a little before paint.
    2019-08-10 16.13.15.jpg
     
  7. Got the rear bumper removed, the rear valance fitted and the bumper bolted back on. Fitted the combined fog and reverse light and my Perfect Earth fitted.
    2019-08-11 18.16.15.jpg

    Still trying to figure out how to sort this gap out. The seal won't hook onto the bottom of the timware like it should and it leaves a 10mm gap. :confused: You can see the yellow ignition lead through the gap.
    2019-08-11 15.49.27.jpg
     
  8. Quick sand ready for some paint.
    2019-08-13 08.22.41.jpg
    Hopefully i'll manage to get the doors on this afternoon. With a bit of shuffling about there should be enough room to get them both on.
     
    paradox likes this.
  9. Got the drivers door bolted on this afternoon. 2019-08-13 16.11.14.jpg

    It fitted reasonably well before i tightened up all the body mounting bolts but is now slightly out of whack.
    2019-08-13 16.09.52.jpg
    Apparently tightening the two bolts on the top of the front beam twists the shell slightly pulling the front end down and in turn lifting the back of the door and moving it slightly forwards.
    4mm is the gap theres supposed to be. Its about 10mm low and 5mm overlapped the opening. After tightening them as far as i can (compressing the rubber under the body mount) it moved up 5mm and forwards about 5mm too. Gonna remove the rubbers completely and tighten it some more.

    Looks like the MOT on thursday might have to be postponed. The show on Sunday is being threatened to be cancelled due to the weather. Forecast is rain from Friday onwards and the site is in a hollow and gets pretty boggy.
     
  10. Cancelled tomorrows MOT as it looks like the doors could test my patience. The show on sunday is the last of the year i think so theres no real rush anymore to get it done as its not going to make it. :(
    Will give me a chance to save up for some new seatbelts as the old kangols are slow to retract and are not quite long enough to allow you to move once they're fastened.

    Sprayed a coat of paint onto the wheel i masked up while watching TV last night. Found out one of my dogs is scared of the sound of cellotape. :rolleyes:
    Needs some stopper in a few scratches and chips but not too bad.
    2019-08-14 10.24.15.jpg
     
  11. Wheel given another couple of coats of paint and demasked. Couple of bits need cleaning off the rim where the paint got under the tape but not too bad.
    2019-08-14 15.00.05.jpg Just one more to do.:thumbsup:

    Got the passengers door sort of bolted on. Could only get one screw per hinge as theres not the space to open the door fully to get to the others. I so wish i'd bought some wheel skates years ago. Would have have a few other jobs much easier too.
    2019-08-14 16.04.03.jpg

    1970 tax disc fitted.
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    Sat here a while and made brum brum noises. :D
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  12. I love this rebuild for the way things are being cleaned and reused as much as possible and no stone has been left unturned. Should be an honest and reliable car for many years to come.
     
  13. Most new parts are shocking quality or made from thinner materials. Reused, cleaned up old german parts are 10x better and usually cheaper too.
    This one is a keeper. Owned it for 23 years now and don't want to sell it.

    I just need to get the bloody door to fit properly. It was a reasonable fit when it was tested before the shell was bolted down so somethings moved slightly.
    I somehow cocked up the door opening measurements as it measures 947 instead of 950mm. Even the gap at the top hinge is only 947 which is odd. Whole opening needs stretching 3mm really, though the gap at the A pillar is nearly 7mm instead of the 4 it should be which points to worn or bent hinges maybe?
    The thing is both the door pillars are at 90 degrees to the channel and parallel to each other aswell.

    This is how the factory dealer workshop manual says to adjust the door opening using a portapower to stretch it. :eek: There was a video on youtube that i can't find anymore that showed the method of using a portapower and it moved the rear top of the pillar 25mm so theres a bit of flex in the shell.
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    Valveandy likes this.
  14. Wow, that seems quite a brutal way of adjusting! Must do the job though if VW suggest it.
     
  15. Does look a bit scarey. Also been told a scissor jack and some wood works just as well to stretch the door opening a bit. It only needs moving about 3mm.
    Bodyshells aren't as solid as you assume them to be. The doors on my old polo and passat wouldn't open if the car was jacked up and both the sliding doors on my caravelle and camper are the same and won't slide cleanly if its jacked up.
     
    JamesLey likes this.
  16. Bolted another wheel on. 2019-08-16 14.56.59.jpg
    Not that easy when theres only a foot of space so you can't see where the wheel bolt holes are.
    2019-08-16 14.57.17.jpg
     
    Valveandy likes this.
  17. Looking good....best mention it in case you've not noticed, there some red paint on the valve cap...must be some red primer overspray.
     
  18. :rolleyes:
    Took me ages to work out what the mark was on the rear wing. Had to go back out in the rain and have a look. Turns out its the reflection of the garage wall. :lol:
     
    Bulletooth and Betty the Bay like this.
  19. I think i'm gonna repray the bonnet and the edges of the front wings as theres so many chips and touch ups its never gonna look right.
    Replaced the battery in my caravelle so theres a battery to go in the bug now.
     
    JamesLey likes this.
  20. Quick look into the garage.
    2019-08-18 18.43.15.jpg
     
    Valveandy and paradox like this.

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